UKC

Climbs 143
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Surface Tension, Auchinstarry © Fraser

Crag features

This extensive Dolerite disused quarry has great character with good protection.

A stalwart of central belt trad climbing it has a wide variety of routes from easy accessible routes that can be top-roped by beginners through to much harder and more adventurous routes along the back wall, some directly above the water. 

Regular rockfalls, not to mention dubious interventions by the local council to 'make things safer' mean the routes continue to evolve, with some new routes just added in 2020.

There are two fairly distinct parts to the quarry - the car park/promintory area and then the main rear wall stretching out round the back of the small murky loch.

The car park/promintory area is easily accessed and offers a range of easy to more strenuous routes, some of which can be top-roped from suitable anchors on a tree, fenceposts, plus some in-situ bolted anchors. There are, however several notorious hard routes in this section.

The rear wall of the quarry is rather more adventurous and while there are belay stakes or natural protection for some routes, many others will require either abseiling in or some sketchy scrambling to reach them.

 

Approach notes

Regular train service to Croy which is 1.4 miles, 25 mins walk away. 
Some routes start straight from the car park.
For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

Access Advice

As we come out of lockdown the park around the quarry is becoming quite busy with lots of other folk parking, walking, fishing etc.

It is also attracting some locals who apparently think it's hilarious to chuck rocks down on climbers below (in the car park sector). A recent incident of this nature ended up in a physical altercation and the police were called. Not really the kind of attention we would want in what is already a finely balanced relationship between different groups and the local council/Police.

Please be sensitive to the needs of other recreational users and refrain from taking matters into your own hands if you see or experience any irresponsible or dangerous behaviour by non-climbers. Just call the police and let them deal with it.

Of course if you see irresponsible or dangerous behaviour by other climbers, please step in and tell them nicely. They may not thank you but too bad!

 

 

 

Guidebooks

Anyone comes across a battered copy of Lowland Outcrops, somewhere along the back of the loch, I may have left it on 23-10-21. Please get in touch, thanks!
Dr Toph - 25/Oct/21
You may notice that some of the sectors have been re-organised a bit and re-named. This is to bring it in line with upcoming guidebooks and also to remove confusion or defunkt routes etc. GPS locations are also marked now for each sector on the map. Enjoy!
drconline - 20/Oct/20
Rope found here on 24 June, please call chris on 07392 094 787 if lost.
chriskane - 25/Jun/18
LOST ROPE FOUND!!! 24 June, please call chris on 07392 094 787
chriskane - 24/Jun/18
just to point out it's 1.5 miles / 2.4 kms not 1 km from Croy train station https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/55.9696505,-4.0510201/55.9554232,-4.0361321/@55.9639324,-4.0505144,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m5!3m4!1m2!1d-4.0360615!2d55.956156!3s0x4888689e7c98fce7:0x91aacc1003ac52dc!1m0!3e2
malcolm.harris - 02/Jun/17
Currently a family of bats in a crack on the white slab (part way up red lead)
James90 - 23/Jun/15
Please can people stop top-roping Nijinski (and adjacent routes). It's an amazing line and a great trad testpiece that really deserves better than avoiding it's true lead quality. FWIW with enough RPs and Offsets and the skill to place them, it's closer to E4. Something to save for the future if you can't lead it.
Fiend - 17/Dec/13
Council work has affected the tops of some of the car park area routes, as shown here https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5617456/IMG_0004.JPG This seems to be leading to more dirt and water coming down these lines.
Roberttaylor - 13/Feb/13
'Starry is looking a little woebegone. Other than Red Lead/Mascarade buttress and Trundle slab there's an awful lot of grass and neglect. Couple of public spirited locals needed for gardening.
IanMcC - 14/Jun/12
2 Youtube clips of the view of Auchinstarry Quarry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d158fVJl7Ms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCjxGOKZemk
Denpov - 14/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station the bus nunber 349 also passes the quarry. 50 pence fare August 2010. The buses take about 2 minutes.
Denpov - 10/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station a bus service from 7.43am (no 43) goes past the quarry and is every 15mins during the day, but there may not be an evening service. Get the bus at the bus stop outside the train station Cost 1.25 August 2010. :o)
Denpov - 04/Aug/10
Currently updating the crag and getting all the routes in order. if you have a description of the last 50 or so routes especially it'd be helpful!
JamieSparkes - 27/Nov/08
Auchinstarry is a good venue for middle grade climbers in the Glasgow area. It is a disused dolerite quarry with a wee loch which folk fish and kayak on, with newly- landscaped and imroved grounds. It has excellent routes mainly in the VS- E2 range. Some of the routes have great atmosphere, such as Red Lead (VS 5a) which ascends an improbable looking wall and crack from a semi hanging belay right above the water. Watch out for local savages hurling rubbish and rocks off the top however.
I am the God of Stratheyre - 11/Apr/05
A 15 minute walk from a train station served by fairly regular trains makes this an ideal crag for someone in glasgow without a car. Personally never had any problems with the locals myself but have heard stories.
alrobertson - 18/Apr/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers drconline and Milesy

Loading Notifications...