UKC

Climbs 385
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Dan Donovan on Arms Race (E4 5c) Avon Gorge © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Quarried limestone, generally sound. Protection tends to be sparse. Wall is a real sun trap allowing for year-round climbing. Mainly multi-pitch routes up to about 90 metres. In the summer, escape up to the Downs and the waiting ice cream van.

As of 25 March 2017, there has been a serious rockfall. The area affected is from Morpheus to SOS, particularly around the tree belay above Nightmare. There is still a quantity of loose rock and loose blocks in the area. This area should be treated with caution for the time being. There may be some loose material still in place so take care.

Topo for New Quarry can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17d7bTU2ONVSSMPus5tONyydN2QSNMZOq?usp=sharing

Approach notes

Either scramble down from the Downs, or park the car at the car park at the bottom of Sea Walls, straight off the A4. 

Update this Crag
Last updated on 15/May/2022
Sorry for any inconvenience caused, but UBES will be running "intro to climbing" days on the 30th of September and the 1st of October at Right Wing, and we expect a large volume of people to attend.
AWalker96 - 06/Sep/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Please be careful if climbing here and keep your eyes out for people acting suspiciously above.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Be careful and keep your eyes out if climbing here.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Please be careful climbing around the central section near the car park due to rockfall from Morpheus (I would advise not climbing until the BMC have had a chance to clear the site of debris): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660803
JakeBest - 26/Mar/17
Scrubbed up Midnight Express, To be or not to Bolt and Tunnel vision over the last couple of days. Bit of chalk on them as well so prime for any budding onsighters.
remus - 11/May/14
Watch out for goats atop the crag - they occasionally knock a stone down
clams - 29/May/13
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