Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 57m a.s.l
This is potentially a fine mica-schist crag overhanging the river Leven but the problem of access due to the river mean that it has never become popular. Another problem is that the best view is from across the river but it can only be crossed at low water. Even accessing the routes would not be possible at high water, although the second pitches could be reached by abseil. As a result, the routes needed cleaning in 2014 but looked good, especially as many follow steep crack-lines. The grades are unchecked but may be undergraded.
There is a small outcrop on the other side of river which provides good bouldering and four short routes from VS to HVS. There is also good traversing in summer of the entire walls of the River Leven from the footbridge to the B-Station
For the view of the crag, and if the river is low, approach as for Torr Garbh but leave the path almost immediately after it, before it starts to descend. Head to a knoll, then another knoll and descend a ridge to reach a platform above river level and with a good view of the crag, 15mins. The river must be crossed just above the crag. Only the brave will trust potentially slippery boulders but it can be paddled. The better alternative, especially for those who know the crag, is to follow the West Highland Way from the parking place. It soon crosses the river. Continue up the Way for about 10mins to an easing in angle and where the B station and its large pipes are seen on the left. Cross the pipes to a tiny knoll behind the building, then go straight down a slight ridge to a small clearing on a promontory overlooking the river. This is the cliff-top. Descend rightwards (looking down) to reach a large boulder in the river, and from which all the routes start. There used to be a peg belay in the centre of the crag and used for a middle belay by several routes. If the river was high and pitch 1 to be missed, this could be reached by abseil from a tree above. The pegs are unlikely to be safe but may be unnecessary with modern gear; the routes have not been climbed for many years.
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