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Climbs 154
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Mike on the end of a route © Richard Pollard

Crag features

Popular climbing venue. Perfect to combine with a surf at Croyde, Putsborough or Woolacombe. Baggy is best known for its south facing promontories with lovely slab routes on culm - metamorphosed sandstone - with good friction.

Lots of friendly, well protected slab climbs mostly in S to E2 range with easy access. A mid-range climber's slab paradise.
Note that the ever-popular Kinky Boots (VS 4c) with its amazing fallover start can be done in full even at high tide.

However, Baggy has a darker side - check out the climbing on the Cheesegrater Cliff or Concrete Wall for a spice of adventure!

Approach notes

Tidal - most climbs accessible from mid-tide but not at high tide. Exceptions are Kinkyboots and the adjacent routes on Promontory Slab.

Bird ban, 15th March to 30th June, Check guide for full details. Some of Scrattling Zawn, Cheesegreater Cliff and Concrete Wall are affected. Despite some of the white stakes showing restricted cliffs, Long Rock has been de-restricted since discussions in 2013.

BMC access database:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=508

Best approach is by foot, 20 minutes along track from NT car park in Croyde Bay.

Access Advice

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)

Not Culm.
Mark S Davies - 12/Aug/20
Abseil access to Long Rock area: We abseiled down the initial steep grass section from two abseil stakes. We had a 60m rope but got to a ledge at the same height as Lost Horizon etc in about 35-40m. The abseil down Urizen is around 40m, we took a 45m rope and had a few metres spare at the bottom.
BStar - 09/Sep/19
Promontory has always been unrestricted and now Long Rock too after some negotiations in 2013, but all other areas are restricted. Signs are up, white stakes too even one close to the descent rope for Long Rock, and these are quite strict with timings: 15th March - 30th June.
Joolz - 26/May/15
The BMC RAD site says they have negotiated with the NT ref bird nesting restriction access and the Long Rock is now permanently open for climbing all year round.
jon59 - 23/May/15
i went there yesterday and it was extremlly frightening and we werent even rock climbing! You lot are braver than me!
Annie Mcknee - 29/Sep/06
Dont come here if you dont like slab climbing
The Pylon King - 17/Sep/06
baggy point is an excellent place to climb for the novice to extremeist! excellent views and some very nice climbs. you could even bring your bird along!!
billy boy - 07/Dec/05
Baggy is one of the most breath-taking and beautiful crags in the country. I grew up climbing on these rocks and consider its wonderful routes amongst the best. Please respect this place - use the footpaths and take your litter with you. Thanx
zakalwe - 12/Aug/05
Baggy point is a very good climb site, I lived in devon for about 14 yrs, and i climbed there almost every weekend. Very good for begginers and experts.
Gaza - 25/May/03
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Climbs at this crag

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