Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
210ft “Boiled or mashed, sir?” Climbed on the hottest day of the year. The striking diagonal crack slanting left from the foot of Concrete Rose. Pitch 1 and 2 could be lead in one very long pitch with a triple set of friends. As it is although there’s plenty of it protection is never completely reassuring! Huge friends pretty essential.
1. Follow an easy ramp to the terrifyingly obvious wide crack slanting along the lip of the cave. Good jams lead to a particularly funky bit requiring the full offwidth improvisation; arm bars, head rests and full body jams, hopefully you know the score. Belay 20ft beyond the cave at good gear but a very poor stance.
2. The continuation is a little more conventional although still tricky in places. Belay onto of the big flake of Bird’s Nest Crack.
3. Ramble leftwards and take the rotting runnels to steep grass which is scaled to a “stance” on the footpath. Who needs a stinking belay!
Ian Parnell, Dave Pickford (Alternate Leads) 10/Aug/2005.
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Call to Arms
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Sanctuary Wall)