UKC

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Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

2 pitches. A good girdle providing the slab isn't full of other teams.

P1. Start just left of the bottom of the descent gully. Climb the thin crack (poor pro) to the quartzy break. Traverse left to another thin crack and move up to a horizontal break. Continue left across In Her Eyes and into the Marion crack to belay a little lower.
P2. Traverse horizontally left across the slab, along a bulge passing an undercut flake at foot level to the left hand crack (Ben). Continue traversing left to a large undercut flake and the arĂȘte of Freddie. Finish up this.

Ticklists

Culm Along

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 9 Jan Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Phil Wilson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Phil Wilson
Mr MRS 23 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The climbers club Topo makes it look like the start is way over to the right but I think a good few metres left of this would have been correct. The \"obvious bulge\" isn\'t obvious at all. Definitely added a grade going off course.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climbers club Topo makes it look like the start is way over to the right but I think a good few metres left of this would have been correct. The "obvious bulge" isn't obvious at all. Definitely added a grade going off course.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 8
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Twinkletoes

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Baggy Point)

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