UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

25m. Start just left of the "perched slab", and follow a thin crack up for approx. 10ft, before moving right under the slab. Udge your way up with little to no gear to an unstable flake with good gear just below the boulder bridge. Pull over onto this (crux) to good holds and the safety of the last part of "The Ridge of Kazad-Dum". Fix a sling runner and follow the ridge up to a belay stake at the top.

Not in CC guide "Many variations have been claimed..."

Josh Rose and Carole Standing 14/Jul/2007.

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 1
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
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High 4a
Mid 4a
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Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Twinkletoes

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Baggy Point)

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