400m, 10 pitches.
Regional classic of the SE face.
A little fixed gear but rack necessary. Descent likely to require ice axe.
Various topos here: https://davidmalabarista.blogspot.com/2014/10/escalada-del-espolon-elegante-al.html
Approach from Refuge Respumosa past the foot of the Breche Latour. 2.5 hours from refuge.
Start: foot of series of good flakes at left hand end of large diagonal terrace running above lowest part of face.
1. 45m V. Up the flakes with protection and pleasure. Step right to the terrace and 2 peg belay.
2. 40m II. To the end of the terrace.
3. 35m V+. Step slightly down and right then delicately up the steepening to easier ground. Various lines up the rib above; left slightly easier.
4. 45m IV. Follow grooves up the crest to beneath a wall split by a stepped groove.
5. 50m IV+. Up the perfect groove then easier climbing to a good ledge below a further wall.
6. 40m IV-. Continue up broken groove to step left round to a ledge just below summit of pinnacle.
7. 40m IV. Climb the crack on the right to summit of second pinnacle.
8. 40m V+. Climb the groove above the belay (V-; peg) then step left and climb a short steep crack, exiting up blocks to the right.
9. 20m IV. Downclimb left (facing the rock); a backrope can be arranged for the second through the maillon at the pitch 8 belay. Often abbed.
10. 50m II. Scramble up the grooves and blocks then trend left to meet the ridge; care needed with loose rock.
The summit is 100m away along a well worn path.
Descent: retrace your steps from the summit for 50m then pick up a cairned path leading down to the right from the ridge. The path winds below some rocky outcrops to the small col to the south. Ascend to the minor summit, which has a cable abseil station. Abseil (intermediate stations available) or downclimb exposed III to the gully bed. Scramble down or make a further abseil to the snowfield.
Time: 2-2.5 hours approach (from refuge); 4-5 hours climbing; 3-4 hours descent.
A little fixed gear but rack necessary. Descent likely to require ice axe.
Various topos here: https://davidmalabarista.blogspot.com/2014/10/escalada-del-espolon-elegante-al.html
Approach from Refuge Respumosa past the foot of the Breche Latour. 2.5 hours from refuge.
Start: foot of series of good flakes at left hand end of large diagonal terrace running above lowest part of face.
1. 45m V. Up the flakes with protection and pleasure. Step right to the terrace and 2 peg belay.
2. 40m II. To the end of the terrace.
3. 35m V+. Step slightly down and right then delicately up the steepening to easier ground. Various lines up the rib above; left slightly easier.
4. 45m IV. Follow grooves up the crest to beneath a wall split by a stepped groove.
5. 50m IV+. Up the perfect groove then easier climbing to a good ledge below a further wall.
6. 40m IV-. Continue up broken groove to step left round to a ledge just below summit of pinnacle.
7. 40m IV. Climb the crack on the right to summit of second pinnacle.
8. 40m V+. Climb the groove above the belay (V-; peg) then step left and climb a short steep crack, exiting up blocks to the right.
9. 20m IV. Downclimb left (facing the rock); a backrope can be arranged for the second through the maillon at the pitch 8 belay. Often abbed.
10. 50m II. Scramble up the grooves and blocks then trend left to meet the ridge; care needed with loose rock.
The summit is 100m away along a well worn path.
Descent: retrace your steps from the summit for 50m then pick up a cairned path leading down to the right from the ridge. The path winds below some rocky outcrops to the small col to the south. Ascend to the minor summit, which has a cable abseil station. Abseil (intermediate stations available) or downclimb exposed III to the gully bed. Scramble down or make a further abseil to the snowfield.
Time: 2-2.5 hours approach (from refuge); 4-5 hours climbing; 3-4 hours descent.
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Route of Interest
Diedro Sur
Grade: V+ ***
(Balaitous)