Climbs 80
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces NW
Beast. © Fraser
Crag features
30th July 2025 update: For the time being, please do not park at 'The Herd Cafe'. The farmer has requested climbers revert to parking on the main road at the east end of the lakes. This is due to the 'Sunflower Event' which is about to begin at the farm. Normal service should be resumed after 2nd September.
Bolted routes along a 10-20m high series of outcrops in a sheltered setting. Bolts have been replaced on the majority of existing lines with 12mm glue-ins or 10mm expansions and many new lines have been added following the original development.
2025 UPDATE: Developing is still taking place, so please respect closed projects and be patient if you find routes with missing hangers, as they are still in the process of being cleaned and prepared.
**NB: Toilet paper and sanitary products should be bagged and carried out with you. Please do not pee or poo near the trail between sectors - there is a handy, secluded spot on the other side of the dirt road adjoining the access path for the original crag (Left-Hand Buttress).**
Approach notes
30th July 2025 update: For the time being, please do not park at 'The Herd Cafe'. The farmer has requested climbers revert to parking on the main road at the east end of the lakes. This is due to the 'Sunflower Event' which is about to begin at the farm.
Limited parking is also available at: ///scars.hopes.cork (56.039583, -2.694091) and offers a walk in of sub-15 minutes. From here walk south east on the main road for ~600m then along the field boundaries for a further 1.1km. Turn west off the JMW and follow the sign post for Balgone Lakes. After ~200m turn left to follow the path that runs along the south side of the lake. The crag is at the western end of the lake, facing north.
***A DETAILED MAP OF THE PARKING AREA AND APPROACH IS NOW INCLUDED IN THE 'PHOTOS' SECTION***
Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.
Restricted Access
TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow the approach instructions above - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS
** There is a voluntary climbing ban during the shooting season 1st Oct - 1st Feb. While this is not legally enforceable under Scottish Land Rights Act (walking is still permitted along the paths), it is strongly encouraged to keep a good relationship with the estate, who are currently very accommodating of the bolting and climbing in the Heughs. **
| Be aware Balgone estate Herd cafe car park shut until 3rd September 2025. Other locations will need to be used :) davesa - 01/Aug/25 |
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| The Balgone Estate has an event on which means the car park at the Herd cafe is closed. I've been told this is until September 3rd 2025. Might be worth highlighting this on main UKC Balgone Heughs page along with reminder about considerate parking for this crag? davesa - 01/Aug/25 |
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| Awesome addition to East Lothian. Lots of harder lines. I'll need to do some press ups before I return! Welldone on developing the crag. robahalliday - 06/Jul/15 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Fraser and Kieran James Cunningham