UKC

Climbs 62
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Jez getting ready to boogie. © Fraser

Crag features

Bolted routes along a 15m high outcrop in a sheltered setting. Bolts have been replaced on the majority of existing lines with 12mm glue-ins and many new lines added 2021/22 and 2023/24.

2024 UPDATE: Developing is still taking place, so respect those closed porjetcs and be patient if you find routes with missing hangers, as they are still in the process of being cleaned and prepared. 

Approach notes

Limited parking is available at: ///scars.hopes.cork (56.039583, -2.694091) and offers a walk in of sub-15 minutes. From here walk south east on the main road for ~600m then along the field boundaries for a further 1.1km. Turn west off the JMW and follow the sign post for Balgone Lakes. After ~200m turn left to follow the path that runs along the south side of the lake. The crag is at the western end of the lake, facing north.

Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.

Aditional parking is avialable on the layby by the east boundary of the fields (56.036843, -2.690826).

Restricted Access

TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow the approach instructions above - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS

** There is a voluntary climbing ban during the shooting season 1st Oct - 1st Feb. While this is not legally enforceable under Scottish Land Rights Act (walking is still permitted along the paths), it is strongly encouraged to keep a good relationship with the estate, who are currently very acccomodating of the bolting and climbing in the Heughs. **

Awesome addition to East Lothian. Lots of harder lines. I'll need to do some press ups before I return! Welldone on developing the crag.
robahalliday - 06/Jul/15
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Climbs at this crag

Supported by the Bolts for Balgone!.
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