Climbs 48
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 61m a.s.l
Faces NW
The thin and technical 'Heuthanasia' at Balgone Heughs. © Fraser
Bolted routes along a 15m high outcrop in a sheltered setting, only 25 minutes walk from North Berwick Law. bolts replaced on the majority of existing lines with 12mm glue ins and many new lines added Autumn 2013. More new lines added 2021/22.
** There is a voluntary climbing ban during the shooting season 1st Oct - 1st Feb. While this is not legally enforceable under Scottish Land Rights Act (walking is still permitted along the paths), it is strongly encouraged to keep a good relationship with the estate, who are currently very acccomodating of the bolting and climbing in the Heughs. **
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Approach is easiest via the John Muir Way from North Berwick Law.
Parking is best at the North Berwick Law car park, from here head to NBL quarry and take the path south past a small pond and through a couple of gates into farmland. From here head directly south along the field boundary, cross a small lane and continue until meeting a larger road at a chicane. Alternatively, limited parking is available at: ///scars.hopes.cork and reduces the walk in to sub-15 minutes.
From here rather than take the roughly surface track signed "Balgone Barns" to the farm, turn left/east and follow the JMW along the road for c.600m then along the field boundaries for a further 1.1km. Turn west off the JMW and follow the sign post for Balgone Lakes. After c.200m turn right to follow the path that runs along the south side of the lake. The crag is at the western end of the lake
25 minutes brisk march from NBL side or 15 minutes coming from the parking to the east, towards Leuchie House (see w3w location advised above)Â
Shooting takes place between 1st October and 1st February so please avoid between these dates.
Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.
TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow instructions below - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS
The landowner is concerned about the health and safety issues associated with the public walking/cycling through the steading at Balgon Barns. This is clearly identified as a private estate road and a gate has now been erected across the private road and access to the crag is now a little more circuitous (additional 1.5km).
Approach is easiest via the John Muir Way from North Berwick Law.
Parking is best at the North Berwick Law car park, from here head to NBL quarry and take the path south past a small pond and through a couple of gates into farmland. From here head directly south along the field boundary, cross a small lane and continue until meeting a larger road at a chicane. From here rather than take the roughly surface track signed "Balgone Barns" to the farm, turn left/east and follow the JMW along the road for c.600m then along the field boundaries for a further 1.1km. Turn west off the JMW and follow the sign post for Balgone Lakes. After c.200m turn right to follow the path that runs along the south side of the lake. The crag is at the western end of the lake.
Shooting takes place between 1st October and 1st February so please avoid between these dates.
Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.
TAKE GREAT CARE if you are knocking rock off / developing a new route not to put others at risk. Remember there are other users in the area. This is VITAL to preserve access to this crag.
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