Climbs 36
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces N
As nice as 'a hole in the ground' gets - Balmashanner. © Fraser
Hard sport climbing area near Forfar. Slow to dry after winter seepage.
Most climbs well protected, short (15m) and enjoyable, although somewhat intense. There is a good bouldering traverse of right wall at 7b+ (french route grade)
The Left Wall and these routes have ceased to exist due to infilling by the farmer.
Must Dos : Savage Amusement (7b), Shame in Your Game (7c), The Niche (8a+) and when dry, Merchant of Menace (8b).
Park on the road sign posted as Glencoe Cottage (56.626817, -2.898808). Park well close to the hedge and try not to block any access on approach track. Follow the path until the entry of the forest and turn right into the crops. Follow the fence for about 20m and go over it left to the top of the quarry.
When using the newly installed steps down to the crag please avoid standing on the wooden retaining boards of each step to prolong their life.
Early in the season the path going downhill into the quarry is full of man-eating nettles all the way up to the sky. Steps not evident. Bring a machete or a goat.
For Beta for some of the routes at the crag see this video:
http://www.vimeo.com/15434300
cheers,
Simie Simie202 - 03/Sep/12 |
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