UKC

Climbs 243
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 79m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

Located in the Lancaut Nature Reserve and a designated SSSI; Ban-y-gor is an impressive, large crag along a long escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded. Click here to watch the Crag Tour Video (YouTube)

 

2022: MAIN CLIFF SEASONAL RESTRICTIONS: PLEASE READ

Restriction Dates: 15 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Area: This restriction applies to all routes/sectors on the Main Cliff of Ban-y-Gor, to protect nesting peregrine falcons. All other sectors unaffected. 2018 ban on permanently restricted Main Cliff routes still apply.

2018: IMPORTANT ACCESS INFORMATION: PLEASE READ

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on The Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area to nesting Peregrins within the reserve.
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat and tresspass on private land 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Please ensure you follow this code (and seasonal restrictions) to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour.

Click here to see UKC thread (2017)  

Click here to see BMC Regional Access Database

2005/2006: Cleaning and re-equipping. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

2022: Recent storms have felled a number of trees which now rest across the path and damaged the boundary fence. While this does not impede access to the crag, care should be exercised. The largest of these trees has now been cut up and removed from the path.

 

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left (Do not go through the gate and cross the private field).

 

Follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the private field, dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

 

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

Access Advice

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area will be extended once the peregrines which are now nesting on Main Wall have fledged their young. 

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines nest on the crag and nesting restrictions apply (see restrictions info below)
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on the Main Cliff of Ban-y-Gor, to protect nesting peregrine falcons.

Other sectors (i.e. to the right of the Main Cliff, facing the crag) are not affected by this seasonal restriction and can be climbed on year round providing the access agreement is followed.

Very loose and dangerous rock on the route "Matt, HVS" Did not climb, but pulled off some very loose blocks from the first few mtrs, still one more biggish one to go.... look out!
Felix Ottey - 20/May/17
I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
Esoterical - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
Esoterical - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
Esoterical - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less death defying. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees?
Esoterical - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
Esoterical - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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