Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. It features numerous good multi-pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.
When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only). Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.
1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.
2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a rockfall, caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected.
3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)
Approaches vary from 15 - 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) Châtelard (CH) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector.
PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages.