UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
The continuation of Abnegation is a classic in its own right. A route with reverse exposure - the belay is the worst and you get less scared as you get higher - though the bolts are well spaced. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rockfax Côte d'Azur Top 50 (2017) , Verdon

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User Date Notes
David McLean 14 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Abseiled in and let of go the ropes only to have them blow away in the wind. Have never felt so alone at an anchor. Palpable relief when the wind changed direction a few minutes later and blew them back. As Georgia was coming down I decided I was scared of the first few moves and didn't fancy a factor 2 fall so we very cleverly decided to leave the rope clipped in to a couple of quick drawers. Needless to say when we pulled the rope the rappel knot immediately got stuck at said quick-draws meaning I had to climb up to it on one skinny single and then untie and re-tie back into both ropes while gazing firmly into the void. Thrilling stuff. The rest of the pitch went fine for me. Georgia couldn't see me and (apparently) had a mare with the ropes getting tangled and was convinced that she was going to pull me off the enormous run out slab (it's enormous, and very run-out) and let me fall to my death. I had a great time, she arrived at the chains in a state of some distress. 10/10 would do again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseiled in and let of go the ropes only to have them blow away in the wind. Have never felt so alone at an anchor. Palpable relief when the wind changed direction a few minutes later and blew them back. As Georgia was coming down I decided I was scared of the first few moves and didn't fancy a factor 2 fall so we very cleverly decided to leave the rope clipped in to a couple of quick drawers. Needless to say when we pulled the rope the rappel knot immediately got stuck at said quick-draws meaning I had to climb up to it on one skinny single and then untie and re-tie back into both ropes while gazing firmly into the void. Thrilling stuff. The rest of the pitch went fine for me. Georgia couldn't see me and (apparently) had a mare with the ropes getting tangled and was convinced that she was going to pull me off the enormous run out slab (it's enormous, and very run-out) and let me fall to my death. I had a great time, she arrived at the chains in a state of some distress. 10/10 would do again.

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Short en Hiver

Grade: 6c ***
(Sisteron)

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