Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5c, 5) 5a, 6) 5c, 7) 6a+, 8) 6c+, 9) 5c,
10) A0/6a (7c), 11) 6a. Perhaps the archetypical Verdon experience, long and committing, on superb rock and with breathtaking positions. The bottom four pitches are often avoided by starting from the Jardin des Ecureuils at the base of the Dalles Grises abseils. If starting from the bottom use the Ticket Danger abseils to reach the foot of Gwendal then walk 80m to the right to locate the start at a pillar under the centre of an arching roof. The first four pitches DO NOT appear on the topo, they feature old bolts and some traversing and feel hard for the grade. The 6c+ pitch stops a few folks and the 10th pitch is hard 7c if done free, though it can be easily aided. The final 'easy' pitch has spaced gear and has caused a few wobblers over the years! © Rockfax
Euro Alpine Rock , Rockfax Côte d'Azur Top 50 (2017) , Verdon
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tomkim | 14 May |
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βeta: The bottom two pitches have been rebolted. Caused us some confusion as we were expecting to climb on old 8mm. We could still see the old bolt holes in many places. In particular, the two bolts holes and piton scar at the first belay were a reassuring confirmation that we were in the right place. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The bottom two pitches have been rebolted. Caused us some confusion as we were expecting to climb on old 8mm. We could still see the old bolt holes in many places. In particular, the two bolts holes and piton scar at the first belay were a reassuring confirmation that we were in the right place. |
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freudiangrip | 16 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: It seemed turning left was the key to keeping on route...bonne chance! | ||
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βeta: It seemed turning left was the key to keeping on route...bonne chance! |
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Barre de l'Escalès (Verdon))