Rockfax Description
An impressive pitch that takes on the bulging wall at the seaward end of the cliff. The grade is for an ascent with the peg in place - a good nut is also available but may prove difficult to place on lead and is sometimes pre-placed to back up the aged peg. Start below a steep, thin flake crack, just right of The Cull. Climb the flake to a thin horizontal break. Pull right and then up with difficulty to a peg, from where more hard climbing gains a good hold. Climb more easily to an overhang and thread, before moving up left to a crack that is followed to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Littlejohn 20/May/1988.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Reeve | 20 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The peg is just a rusty stub, but there is a very good small wire about 1m above it. It feels a little run out to get to a position to place this wire but it's still E6 this way IMO. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The peg is just a rusty stub, but there is a very good small wire about 1m above it. It feels a little run out to get to a position to place this wire but it's still E6 this way IMO. |
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| Steve Claw | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg is long gone | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Peg is long gone |
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Guidebooks for Bass Point
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Gypsy Queen
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Tintagel Head)