Altitude 45m a.s.l
becca having one last try © mwatson
The Battleship Back Cliff offers some superb stamina pitches with well-positioned crux moves, often high on the wall. The left-hand side of the Battleship Back Cliff is a favoured place for those seeking out long sustained pitches in the mid to upper grades whilst its right-hand side is slightly shorter and has some easier, but still high quality lines. The Block lies in front of the Back Cliff and has a number of good, slabby pitches at friendly grades, although they are a bit polished. Further on are the newly-developed areas of The Attic, The Balcony and The Veranda. These are smaller cliffs, but have a good line-up of mid-grade lines that are destined to become popular.
The Battleship cliffs are easy to reach from parking spots on Reap Lane, just to the south of Weston. Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.
Follow a wide track behind houses and go right at the crossroads. Follow the track, past farm buildings, to the cliff-top path. At the cliff edge bare slightly left to a grassy gully. Descend this with care to a terrace above the Veranda Cliff. Follow this north (right looking out) towards the distinctive and massive Battleship Block. Battleship Back Cliff is accessed from here.
To reach The Brontosaurus wall from Block take the path that goes over the top of the Veranda and continue in a fairly straight line, going past the alternative access ftom the costal path. Alternatively come down the alternative stepped and roped access from the coastal path and look left for a faint path that leads to a fixed rope that will take you down to left side of the crag.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|Added a new lower off to Buoys Will Be Buoys. Two p-bolts on a chain.|
Wayne.Gaudin - 28/Jun/21
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