UKC

Climbs 111
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces all

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Sim Davies on Power by Proxy © Ben Stokes

Crag features

Battleship Edge is one of the most popular sport climbing venues in Dorset. Nestling beneath, somewhat unnoticed, is a collection of large boulders home to close to 110 boulder problems. With reasonably easy access, quality rock, and good climbing across the grades, Battleship Beach deserves far more attention. Landings are rocky and sometimes uneven, so bouldering mats are essential - in fact the more the better if you are going to push your grade.

Approach notes

Following a huge landslip in 2014 the Battleship Edge approach is no longer possible. Instead the southern approach above the Veranda Cliff must be used.

Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.

Follow a wide track behind houses and go right at the crossroads. Follow the track, past farm buildings, to the cliff-top path. At the cliff edge bare slightly left to a grassy gully. Descend this with care to a terrace above the Veranda Cliff. Follow this north (right looking out) towards the distinctive and massive Battleship Block. Immediately before Battleship Block follow an indistinct path seaward. A flat grassy area is reached just before the final drop onto the beach.

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