Altitude 36m a.s.l
Unknown climber on No Man is an Island, F6c © Jus
For most people the Battleship Edge is the starting point for exploring the west coast of Portland's huge supply of routes. It is an extremely friendly and inviting place. The gleaming white and grey-streaked faces and striking grooves are peppered with bolts. After the huge landslip of 2014 the old approach is no longer useable, and the crag base is not quite as grassy and friendly as it used to be. The routes remain unchanged though and offer the same quality especially in the mid grades.
Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes left of Evening Falls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added.
The Battleship cliffs are easy to reach from parking spots on Reap Lane, just to the south of Weston. Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane and park on the roadside beyond the traffic-calming installation (150m after the roundabout). Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.
From the first traffic-calming installation, pick up a fenced path that heads towards the cliff-top. At the junction with the cliff-top path, head slightly rightwards, and then take one of two steep paths down the hillside. The Battleship Edge is on the left.
The original descent has been destroyed by a landslide. There is now a descent with a chain handrail that brings you down in the gap between battleship edge and the backwall.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|Added another bolt to the top of Monoculture. Easier climbing but a 6m run out. I asked Pete Oxley first if that would be ok.|
Wayne.Gaudin - 19/Jun/21
|Great crag, but do not listen to the 2012 Dorset guidebook access notes (follow those provided on here. The two steep paths it suggests taking are no longer existent following the rockfall and are extremely dangerous, they appear okay at first but end very abruptly with a large drop down the cliff.|
Robheirene - 13/Jul/15
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Marti999