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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

The superb crackline provides an irresistable jamming testpiece. Rumours of fallen blocks and increased grades can safely be ignored - this is a bog standard HVS 5a crack [moderator's note - this is very much a minority opinion!]. Gain the niche and squirm out of it into the crack. Jam joyously up this to jugs and glory.

Ticklists

North York Moors - The Best

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
TomPearce63 15 May Lead First HVS Lead
with Ben Pearce
First HVS Lead
with Ben Pearce
Aaron Duke 15 Sep, 2019 Lead Lovely route however sandy lower half and moist towards the top
Lovely route however sandy lower half and moist towards the top
Moody Loner 19 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S If you can't jam, then Genhenna can look rather steep. But if you can, it looks super satisfying. The top-out comes with a convenient tree to pull up onto and belay your second from. Great climbing, and certainly an advert for buying crack gloves.
with John crooks
If you can't jam, then Genhenna can look rather steep. But if you can, it looks super satisfying. The top-out comes with a convenient tree to pull up onto and belay your second from. Great climbing, and certainly an advert for buying crack gloves.
with John crooks
Anti-faff 2 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S Class! If you think this is E1 don’t go to Brimham.
with CMC meet
Class! If you think this is E1 don’t go to Brimham.
with CMC meet
guisboro andy 2 Jul, 2019 -
Hidden 11 May, 2017 TR dnf
Hidden 21 Apr, 2017 TR dog
Keith Swainson 3 Oct, 2015 Lead G/U Really good route (as long as you're comfortable jamming) failed to second 10 years ago, all the hard work felt ok today onsite though. Like a dirty, Millstone, classic!
with Georgie
Really good route (as long as you're comfortable jamming) failed to second 10 years ago, all the hard work felt ok today onsite though. Like a dirty, Millstone, classic!
with Georgie
Hidden 28 Jun, 2015 Lead β
Whorlhill 26 Aug, 2014 2nd
Small and weak 26 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 26 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
peterhubbard 12 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 12 Aug, 2014 Lead dog
Matthew Ferrier 23 Jul, 2014 2nd rpt Bit easier this time.
Bit easier this time.
Calum Wadsworth 23 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Nice bit of jamming. Crack got a little slimy at one point though.
Nice bit of jamming. Crack got a little slimy at one point though.
freemanTom 27 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf Dampness and lack of biggish cams led to retreat. Failure however doesn't rub out my insight last year.
with New Chris cmc
Dampness and lack of biggish cams led to retreat. Failure however doesn't rub out my insight last year.
with New Chris cmc
Hidden 22 May, 2013 2nd
Ste Ridd 22 May, 2013 2nd
mikecollins 22 May, 2013 Lead dog
Tilt ??, 2013 2nd
Jimmy1976 7 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Crux is moving feet up out of the pea pod. Great jams to the top.
with Simonj
Crux is moving feet up out of the pea pod. Great jams to the top.
with Simonj
Simonj 7 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
phleppy 3 Sep, 2012 Lead dnf Spat out like a load of flem!
Spat out like a load of flem!
Matthew Ferrier 3 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Equally pumpy as it is classic, the final crack really taught me how to hand jam. . .
Equally pumpy as it is classic, the final crack really taught me how to hand jam. . .
Sam Marks 3 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Cracking!
Cracking!
freemanTom 28 Aug, 2012 Lead Utterely, utterly superb, one of the best routes in the county let alone the moors. Only just got it clean.
with Ben Pearce
Utterely, utterly superb, one of the best routes in the county let alone the moors. Only just got it clean.
with Ben Pearce
markfairbank 4 May, 2011 Lead dog Brutal... the route won at a canter! One day i'll learn how to jam!
with Ray Sharples
Brutal... the route won at a canter! One day i'll learn how to jam!
with Ray Sharples
smithjmw46 28 Apr, 2011 Lead dog Glad to have cams otherwise very unprotected without the friends. good moves but sustained after early rest. Need to improve endurance to get the flash.
Glad to have cams otherwise very unprotected without the friends. good moves but sustained after early rest. Need to improve endurance to get the flash.
padski ? May, 2010 Lead O/S
Matt Bill Platypus 11 May, 2009 2nd dnf
with Fiend
with Fiend
Ram MkiV 4 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with stead
with stead
beaumap ??, 2009 Lead
with various
with various
Dave Warburton 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S First climb in nearly 3 weeks. Getting out the niche was quite awkward, then horizontal crack is a OK rest, which allows you to jam up the final crack to the nice pockets. Great line, shame theres only a view at the very top! 5b? (Note, there are no rumours about 'fallen blocks', i've spoken to the chap that levered the unsafe block out, and when in place it was easier!)
First climb in nearly 3 weeks. Getting out the niche was quite awkward, then horizontal crack is a OK rest, which allows you to jam up the final crack to the nice pockets. Great line, shame theres only a view at the very top! 5b? (Note, there are no rumours about 'fallen blocks', i've spoken to the chap that levered the unsafe block out, and when in place it was easier!)
Franco Cookson OLD 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S class!
class!
lithos 22 Jul, 2008 Lead dog spanked - solid 5b, slippery and hard. Strenuous but safe as house and awkward. Slumped onto bottom cam, getting out of the niche is well hard.
spanked - solid 5b, slippery and hard. Strenuous but safe as house and awkward. Slumped onto bottom cam, getting out of the niche is well hard.
Will Smith 22 Jul, 2008 2nd dog A great line, but absolutely brutal. From exiting the niche to the top is one long nightmare of pulling on dubious jams with little for your feet and never a comfortable rest. I would need to be a lot stronger to get up this cleanly.
with lithos
A great line, but absolutely brutal. From exiting the niche to the top is one long nightmare of pulling on dubious jams with little for your feet and never a comfortable rest. I would need to be a lot stronger to get up this cleanly.
with lithos
Andy Graham ??, 2008 2nd dog
with Steve Anderson
with Steve Anderson
Franco Cookson ??, 2008 -
gilldando 15 Sep, 2007 2nd dnf still can't get past half way... goddamm
with Mike
still can't get past half way... goddamm
with Mike
IanJackson 1 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
with Big Ian
jonka ? Aug, 2007 Lead
with sean
with sean
gilldando 11 Mar, 2007 TR dnf got spat out by the big crack 4 times, I'll get it next time... Where's the chockstone gone!!
with Mike
got spat out by the big crack 4 times, I'll get it next time... Where's the chockstone gone!!
with Mike
mikekeswick 3 Sep, 2006 TR RP
with leif
with leif
chrishedgehog 2 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S "Contender for best route in the area"? I can believe it!
with Jen Dargue
"Contender for best route in the area"? I can believe it!
with Jen Dargue
snowy owl ? Sep, 2005 2nd
Steve Crowe 20 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Climbster 13 Oct, 1999 Lead β
Hidden 28 Jul, 1992 Lead
Neil R 11 Jul, 1991 Lead
with Sharon
with Sharon
Rich Kirby ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
cenotaphcorner 11 Sep, 1974 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Five Star Finish

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Almscliff)