Climbs 42
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces N

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Stairway to Heaven 7b © Andy Cowley

Crag features

(Micro routes and a couple of problems, very good rock but dirty - NMC Bouldering Guide).


Has a remote, wild and forgotten feel about it  being up on the moor despite it only being about a 20 minute walk from the parking spot described. The crag looks North over stunning Northumbrian countryside towards Harehope and has a real air of solitude. Because of its aspect and lack of traffic some of the rock can become a little green so a soft brush can be handy on a few blocks.

There are 42 listed problems varying from short slabs, dynos, roofs and some testing highballs. Grades currently range between 5+ to 7b but mainly within the 6th grade. Some remaining hard open projects including a blunt arete have been left for further development.

There are 3 distinct areas along the crag where the bouldering in this miniguide is contained. The West End, Central and East End areas. Approaching from the West you will come across the West End first. The guide moves along the crag Eastwards. What3words has been used throughout to identify problem locations. 

PDF miniguide is here:


There have been teams of climbing enthusiasts visiting Beanley Crag over the years. Climbers include Bob and Tommy Smith, Alec Burns, Martin Waugh, Susan Earl, Ian and David Murray and John Earl. None of the bouldering done in the past has been recorded.

For completeness and accuracy I am using my descriptions, names and grades. I acknowledge that some of the problems listed in this guide may have been climbed previously and rediscovered by myself during the crags recent redevelopment.



Approach notes

Head North on the A697 towards Powburn. Make a right turn about a mile before  Powburn on Playwell Road (what3words - thundered.goodness.spades). 

Follow this road to a crossroad and go straight over. Continue for about 1½ miles to an oblique ‘T’ junction. Turn right and after a few hundred metres park on the right just past a gate and style (what3words - talking.absorbing.sprain). There’s enough space here for about 3 or 4 cars. Please be considerate and not block the gate.

Pass through the gate and follow the trail onto the moor. Continue over 3 rises to a stone built structure marked with a gas pipeline marker plate on top (Image left).


Turn left off the trail heading ?90° East. 30m off the trail you will see a pile of stones. Fromhere you can see the Pinnacle bloc. There is no established or defined track from here. 

What track there is peters out in places. Pinnacle bloc (what3words - scowls.manifests.pebbles).


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