150m, 5 pitches. The original route attacks far on the left on a slightly dirty slab with two pitches. It is really suggested the hard but more interesting variant on the right following an obvious direct crack up to a terrace/ledge, and a second overhanging crack on the right of the belay ledge. In both cases the highlight of the route is the dihedral of the third pitch.
The majority of the route (at least climbing the first pitches variant) can be green-pointed. In case, double rack of friends up to #5 (the crack of the dihedral of P3 is wide), wires.

P1. Slightly dirty wall on the left (6a+).
P2. 6c (one hard move)
P3. Beautiful dihedral, slightly overhanging. You can try to jam, or layback, whatever, at the end you will experience the pump (7a+).
P4. Easy slabs toward left, with two hard steps in between (6c).
P5. The final vertical part of the wall. Finish on the left and belay on a big birch (5c).

Variant:
P1. A beautiful crack leads directly to easier terrain and then up to the big ledge (6b+).
P2. Traverse a few meters descending rightwards (it is suggested to scramble this few meters). Nice overhanging crack in a shallow dihedral, then slab (6c).

Descent: From the top, head a few meters on the left (facing valley) to turn around a big block. The first abseil anchor is behind it. With 60m rope, a first long abseil to the top of the dihedral and then two others left till ground.

Elio Bonfanti, Gian Carlo Grassi, Aldo Morittu.

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