UKC

120m, 3 pitches. The buttress between Sentinel Buttress and Dividend Route. Steeper in its lower part, but then taking the fun final steep wall direct. Scramble up easy ground to belay at the toe of the flying buttress immediately left of the groove of Sentinel Route.

1. 50m. Climb steep groves and flakes just right of the crest, then move more easily left to the base of a groove/corner which is climbed through a steep wall to a cracked slab onto easier ground.
2. 40m. Easier climbing staying right of the fault of Dividend Route to the cul-de-sac of that fault. Climb a short corner at the top right of the cul-de-sac (just right of where Dividend Route goes steeply up) then step back left and climb easier slabs to belay.
3. 30m. Move up ledges to the foot of the prominent squat tower on the skyline. Climb this with excellent moves across to and through the flake crack.

Simon Yearsley & Malcolm Bass 26/Feb/2018.

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Route of Interest
Magic Pillar

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Lochnagar)

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