Rockfax Description
165m. This steep and sustained climb is the most outstanding pre-war route in the Cairngorms. Start directly below the corner.
1. 30m Go straight up to a small platform, then climb the prominent chimney, which has a hanging flake forming a constriction at mid-height, to a stance in a cleft at the top.
2. 15m Traverse right for 10m via a short smooth groove. When stopped by a vertical wall, return left by an airy traverse across a wall and over a bulge into the main corner.
3. 25m The general line is now up the corner. Climb the wall just to the right of the corner for 5m, then step left into the corner-crack and climb to a broad platform.
4. 30m Climb a crack in the left wall, then traverse right and follow a sloping ledge to a short wall. Pursuing the same line, follow a loose gully to the ridge between the First and Second Towers.
5, 6. 65m As for Mitre Ridge.
FA M.S.Cumming, J.W.Crofton, 4 Jul 1933 © Rockfax

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