UKC

Rockfax Description
95m. On the right of the right-hand corner lies the very steep Slochd Wall, with a prominent roof system at 30m. This technically interesting route on steep rock with surprising holds ascends a large vertical corner which leads up from the left end of the roof system. Higher up, the corner diverges into two. Although both are good, the left-hand finish makes a more sustained route. Start at the foot of the North-West Gully which bounds the face on the right.
1. 15m The gully to the first depression then traverse onto the wall via a grass shelf to a stance.
2. 30m 5a Follow a crack rightwards and climb a steep slab trending slightly left alongside a small corner (old bolt runner) to a big overhang. Swing right under the overhang into a shallow corner and climb this (crux) into the main corner. The right-hand finish continues up the main corner (5a), but it is better to traverse left to enter and follow another corner until it is possible to step right to a large ledge.
3. 20m 5a Climb the rib at the left end of the ledge for a short way, then swing left to regain the corner. Go straight up, turn the overhang on the left, then move diagonally left to the arĂȘte; belay a little higher.
4. 30m Continue up the edge and finish by a final crack.
FA M.Rennie, G.S.Strange (Aid), 31 Aug 1969
FA B.T.Lawrie, A.Nisbet (FFA), 3 Jul 1979
FA R.J.Archibald, H.Towler, D.J.Wallace, 31 Jul 1982 (LH finish) © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , A.P's summer , Lairig hitlist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls

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User Date Notes
mchardski 19 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Try not to drink 5 pints the night before
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Try not to drink 5 pints the night before
Ben Watson 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Left hand finish. Backed off the lead on the 3rd 4c pitch due to slimy holds on the traverse and bravely handed it to Martin. Possibly the hardest moves of the route?
βeta?
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βeta: Left hand finish. Backed off the lead on the 3rd 4c pitch due to slimy holds on the traverse and bravely handed it to Martin. Possibly the hardest moves of the route?
mc 1 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Cycled in from tomintoul, chain snapped 2 Kms from pony shack so good news as didn't ruin the day. People on squareface and cumming- crofton routes. Slocht wall was well worth the wait, 20 years, and we'll worth the slog in. Steep and slightly scary. Guidebook description handle with care. Always think about first ascentionists, taking the obvious, easiest line. Fell off on 4c traverse as a bit slippy( 4c?) And top 5a pitch, simply a dream. Walk out to face an unchained bicycle. Finger tape held it for about 5 Kms! A long and wonderful day
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cycled in from tomintoul, chain snapped 2 Kms from pony shack so good news as didn't ruin the day. People on squareface and cumming- crofton routes. Slocht wall was well worth the wait, 20 years, and we'll worth the slog in. Steep and slightly scary. Guidebook description handle with care. Always think about first ascentionists, taking the obvious, easiest line. Fell off on 4c traverse as a bit slippy( 4c?) And top 5a pitch, simply a dream. Walk out to face an unchained bicycle. Finger tape held it for about 5 Kms! A long and wonderful day

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bogendreip Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clachnaben)

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