45m, 2 pitches.
Climbs the cracks just left of the arete on the overhang north face. Start on the belay ledge at the top of pitch one of Squareface, accessed by its first pitch or abseil.
1. 20m 6a Climb a short right facing groove just left of the arete, then follow good holds leftwards to a prominent crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to a mantle onto the big ledge below the final overhanging headwall.
2. 25m 6a This pitch climbs the first cracks left of the arete. Start up the left hand crack, over a block and into a niche. Pull over the small roof above the niche and climb the twin cracks to a rest, before taking the more defined left hand crack to a good jam. Just above, protruding holds on the wall lead up and right to finish just left of the arete.
E4/5? Will clean up with traffic.
1. 20m 6a Climb a short right facing groove just left of the arete, then follow good holds leftwards to a prominent crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to a mantle onto the big ledge below the final overhanging headwall.
2. 25m 6a This pitch climbs the first cracks left of the arete. Start up the left hand crack, over a block and into a niche. Pull over the small roof above the niche and climb the twin cracks to a rest, before taking the more defined left hand crack to a good jam. Just above, protruding holds on the wall lead up and right to finish just left of the arete.
E4/5? Will clean up with traffic.
Rory Brown & Liam Malone 17/Jul/2025.
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Route of Interest
Sun God
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Murdoch Head)