410m, 8 pitches. A big route. Takes a rising line into the centre of the face between Der Riesenwand and Gully of the Gods, before moving right from Der Riesenwand and accepting the challenge of the upper wall.

1. 40m. Walk left along the ledge from left of Gully of the Gods. Belay before the ledge narrows.
2. 50m. Continue left along the ledge passing a bulge and belay on cracked blocks.
3. 60m. Climb up 5 m to join a gradually rising leftwards line that leads to the big snow terrace on Die Riesenwand
4. 50m . Follow the leftwards rising traverse of Die Riesenwand to belay where a gangway leads off right.
5. 50m. Follow the gangway past a hard sequence of moves round a rock barrier
6. 60m.Continue for 5m to the end of the terrace. Climb up a 5m icy groove, cross a small snow bay, then climb the fine crack and continue steeply in the same line to belay at the top of a terrace.
7. 60m Move up and right into a broad depression and climb this through a wide flaky crack and continue up fine ground till the angle eases.
8. 40m. Climb easy ground to the top.

Malcolm Bass, Neil Silver & Simon Yearsley 13/Feb/2016.


Ultimate Scottish VII’s


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High VII
High VI
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High 8
Mid 8
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High 7
Mid 7
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High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Route of Interest
Raven's Edge (Winter)

Grade: VII 7 ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)

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