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3 star Scottish winter

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
iainballantyne 4 Mar AltLd dnf Climbed two pitches, metling pretty rapidly in the sun and the ice on the top pitch de-laminated so we ran away. No way is the first pitch VII 7 we both thought we had done harder VIs...
Climbed two pitches, metling pretty rapidly in the sun and the ice on the top pitch de-laminated so we ran away. No way is the first pitch VII 7 we both thought we had done harder VIs...
mim tiller 27 Feb AltLd rpt International winter meet
with Damien from Poland
International winter meet
with Damien from Poland
Hidden 27 Feb AltLd
murray 27 Feb AltLd O/S
with Tom Phillips
with Tom Phillips
Hidden 27 Feb AltLd O/S
mim tiller 4 Mar, 2018 AltLd rpt
calumhicks 4 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S P1 and 2. Probs just hard VI 7. Worthy of its stars though
with Tim Miller
P1 and 2. Probs just hard VI 7. Worthy of its stars though
with Tim Miller
Charlie Zephyr Booth 17 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with tim millen
with tim millen
tjmillen 17 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Charlie
with Charlie
Just Will 15 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Billy
with Billy
LucaC 13 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S ‘Mixed’ climbing, in every sense of the word. Led p1 crux. I thought the runners weren’t great, but there was a lot of snow about to dig through.
with Dan
‘Mixed’ climbing, in every sense of the word. Led p1 crux. I thought the runners weren’t great, but there was a lot of snow about to dig through.
with Dan
Hidden 11 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick 11 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Polish exchange. Really positive climbing, great little traverse at the end of pitch one
Polish exchange. Really positive climbing, great little traverse at the end of pitch one
Hannah Evans 14 Feb, 2017 2nd
with Duncan Curry, Steve Holmes
with Duncan Curry, Steve Holmes
SteveHolmes 14 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Dunx
with Dunx
Dunx 14 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Hannah Evans, SteveHolmes
with Hannah Evans, SteveHolmes
Hidden 9 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
RM199 5 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S Lead middle grade 4 pitch
Lead middle grade 4 pitch
Chad123 5 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, great fun, in perfect condition at the moment too, first pitch has plenty of gear and some cool turf corner moves followed by a cool Boulder problem finish, definitely easier to use hands not axes. Second pitch is just as good, and great contrast being mostly fat ice in a wild position. Always a pleasure climbing with the legend that is Bart Shaw! Go do it before it melts! Probably more like VI 6 or VI 7 as others suggest, not sustained enough to be a VII. Watch out for the tricky IV pitch too, made me think!
with tebs
Brilliant route, great fun, in perfect condition at the moment too, first pitch has plenty of gear and some cool turf corner moves followed by a cool Boulder problem finish, definitely easier to use hands not axes. Second pitch is just as good, and great contrast being mostly fat ice in a wild position. Always a pleasure climbing with the legend that is Bart Shaw! Go do it before it melts! Probably more like VI 6 or VI 7 as others suggest, not sustained enough to be a VII. Watch out for the tricky IV pitch too, made me think!
with tebs
Hidden 5 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Northern Mountain Monkey 5 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Cracking route and cracking line! Certainly one of the best that I've done in the Southern Highlands and indeed anywhere!
Cracking route and cracking line! Certainly one of the best that I've done in the Southern Highlands and indeed anywhere!
Hidden 2 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
stuart34 2 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S P2 just the link pitch Adam was the rope gun gun
P2 just the link pitch Adam was the rope gun gun
Hidden 28 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 28 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route.
with Ben Smith
Great route.
with Ben Smith
mattnuttall 28 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S In superb condition, solid turf, dry rock and fat ice at the top. Stunning day too. Pleasing :-)
In superb condition, solid turf, dry rock and fat ice at the top. Stunning day too. Pleasing :-)
Andrew Wilson 28 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Really good all the way. Led 2 and 3.
with Matt Nuttall
Really good all the way. Led 2 and 3.
with Matt Nuttall
Hidden 28 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Only led the link up pitch in the middle. Awesome route
Only led the link up pitch in the middle. Awesome route
MSchobitz 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1&3. Great route in fantastic condition, with gear when you start to want some. Ice pitch was still pretty tenuous, but apparently very fat. Probably one of the best routes I've done (summer or winter).
Led P1&3. Great route in fantastic condition, with gear when you start to want some. Ice pitch was still pretty tenuous, but apparently very fat. Probably one of the best routes I've done (summer or winter).
graeme gatherer 24 Feb, 2016 -
with Steve Elliot
with Steve Elliot
Misha 14 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Great line, great route. Did in two pitches, I led the mixed P1 and Mark did the icy P2, that worked fine on 50m ropes starting from a good ledge directly below the corner which we gained from the right. Good conditions with well frozen turf on P1 and just enough climbable ice on P2. 4 hours on the route and 7 hour round trip from the road, sunny on the walk in and out, hardly any wind and just a brief snow shower - perfect! It's not hard for VII, may be only VI 7 but I'll take the grade! Crux traverse was fine, good though slightly directional axes on flatties and the feet are only sketchy for a couple of moves. Well protected as you can get a sling on a spike half way along and it's only a few meters across anyway. P1 below the crux is very turfy, some steep moves (hardest bit is off the deck! probably tech 7) but lots of turf ledges so not tiring, with good though slightly spaced gear (or take bulldogs). P2 had rock gear to start, Mark then got a good 10cm screw, an old peg and some rock gear but pretty spaced and the ice wasn't the best - easy to second but required a careful approach on lead - VI 5 for that pitch would be fair.
Great line, great route. Did in two pitches, I led the mixed P1 and Mark did the icy P2, that worked fine on 50m ropes starting from a good ledge directly below the corner which we gained from the right. Good conditions with well frozen turf on P1 and just enough climbable ice on P2. 4 hours on the route and 7 hour round trip from the road, sunny on the walk in and out, hardly any wind and just a brief snow shower - perfect! It's not hard for VII, may be only VI 7 but I'll take the grade! Crux traverse was fine, good though slightly directional axes on flatties and the feet are only sketchy for a couple of moves. Well protected as you can get a sling on a spike half way along and it's only a few meters across anyway. P1 below the crux is very turfy, some steep moves (hardest bit is off the deck! probably tech 7) but lots of turf ledges so not tiring, with good though slightly spaced gear (or take bulldogs). P2 had rock gear to start, Mark then got a good 10cm screw, an old peg and some rock gear but pretty spaced and the ice wasn't the best - easy to second but required a careful approach on lead - VI 5 for that pitch would be fair.
Mark Stevenson 14 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Willismorris 12 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S lead p1 and 2 joint together, amazing!
with euanryan
lead p1 and 2 joint together, amazing!
with euanryan
euanryan 12 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route, worth all 3 stars. Top is lean just now, felt extremely serious with very little gear past the first 15ft. Small cornice to tunnel through at the top also.
with Willis
Great route, worth all 3 stars. Top is lean just now, felt extremely serious with very little gear past the first 15ft. Small cornice to tunnel through at the top also.
with Willis
Ramon Marin 17 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 and the ice pitch 3, Dougie did a great job on pitch one, specially the dyno at the end of the hand traverse! The ice pitch was fun, ice on the thin side but loads of gear and placements, about Wi3+/4 so fairly straight forward. I placed load of rock gear on the first 3rd of the pitch, and then two stubbies and a bulldog and a crap peg for the rest. If I had 4 stubbies I would have place them all, I'm still learning this Scottish stuff, this was only my 6th route up here in Scotland.
Led pitch 2 and the ice pitch 3, Dougie did a great job on pitch one, specially the dyno at the end of the hand traverse! The ice pitch was fun, ice on the thin side but loads of gear and placements, about Wi3+/4 so fairly straight forward. I placed load of rock gear on the first 3rd of the pitch, and then two stubbies and a bulldog and a crap peg for the rest. If I had 4 stubbies I would have place them all, I'm still learning this Scottish stuff, this was only my 6th route up here in Scotland.
D.Russell 17 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1. Awesome route. Soft for the grade.
Led pitch 1. Awesome route. Soft for the grade.
Hidden 15 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
Pina 13 Jan, 2016 2nd O/S Fun crux on first pitch. Didn't fancy the look of the thin ice on top pitch so let Brian go for it.
Fun crux on first pitch. Didn't fancy the look of the thin ice on top pitch so let Brian go for it.
Brian Pollock 13 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S Excellent route. Tough conditions. Lots of powder and not all the turf was frozen despite the cold weather. Enough of it was where you needed it but definitely less than ideal and could do with a freeze thaw. Also, be aware there isn't alot of ice on the top pitch, just enough to get by but the top section is very serious at the moment with no gear.
with Pina
Excellent route. Tough conditions. Lots of powder and not all the turf was frozen despite the cold weather. Enough of it was where you needed it but definitely less than ideal and could do with a freeze thaw. Also, be aware there isn't alot of ice on the top pitch, just enough to get by but the top section is very serious at the moment with no gear.
with Pina
Hidden 13 Jan, 2016 -
Fatherof2 2 Mar, 2015 - Wild weather. Brilliant route. Axes on hand traverse !
with Ian, Chris Fisher
Wild weather. Brilliant route. Axes on hand traverse !
with Ian, Chris Fisher
chris m fisher 2 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Super route. Wild weather
with Ian & Andy
Super route. Wild weather
with Ian & Andy
Hidden 3 Feb, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 3 Feb, 2015 AltLd
robertmichaellovell 31 Jan, 2015 AltLd Very nice, contrasting pitches. Lots of ice on the top pitch
with Fiona
Very nice, contrasting pitches. Lots of ice on the top pitch
with Fiona
dan-8990 29 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
with PF
with PF
mim tiller 23 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
with GraMc
with GraMc
Hidden 23 Jan, 2015 2nd
GraMc 23 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Great climbing. Really grade VI though surely?... I linked 1 and 2 together.
with Stewart, Tim
Great climbing. Really grade VI though surely?... I linked 1 and 2 together.
with Stewart, Tim
tomdude 21 Jan, 2015 AltLd Slipped off on the verglassy hand traverse, found the drier holds in the end. Brilliant climb. Led top two pitches as one.
with Rich Abel
Slipped off on the verglassy hand traverse, found the drier holds in the end. Brilliant climb. Led top two pitches as one.
with Rich Abel
The old James turnbull 18 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Mega, more than one screw could have tamed the run out on the top pitch!
with rich howells
Mega, more than one screw could have tamed the run out on the top pitch!
with rich howells
Nick Clement 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd
with Paul Figg
with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd Lead 1st pitch, Nick ran 2nd, 3rd pitch together. Don't forget the ice screws. 2 great contrasting pitches.
Lead 1st pitch, Nick ran 2nd, 3rd pitch together. Don't forget the ice screws. 2 great contrasting pitches.
LeviG ??, 2015 -
phil64 22 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Tons of snow,lots of spindrift, hard going and a big avalanche over to right, more scary than the climb!
with chris thorn
Tons of snow,lots of spindrift, hard going and a big avalanche over to right, more scary than the climb!
with chris thorn
Ken Applegate 15 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Great route, top pitch could have done with more ice, rather than verglas smears!
with Rich Parker
Great route, top pitch could have done with more ice, rather than verglas smears!
with Rich Parker
Hidden 1 Dec, 2012 Lead dnf
Dave Almond 14 Mar, 2011 AltLd
with frost
with frost
frost 14 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
with D Almond
Neil Adams 27 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Excellent route. I led P1 & P2 (as one pitch - don't believe the guidebook) and Andy led P3.
Excellent route. I led P1 & P2 (as one pitch - don't believe the guidebook) and Andy led P3.
andyinglis 27 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Great route, bit sketchy at times! Lead P3.
Great route, bit sketchy at times! Lead P3.
Ian Jones 23 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S My 15th winter route. Just getting the hang of this crampons on rock palava. No bad.
My 15th winter route. Just getting the hang of this crampons on rock palava. No bad.
Hidden 23 Dec, 2010 Lead
Hidden 5 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
rclarke 24 Feb, 2010 2nd dnf started climbing at 12ish, i arrived at the top of pitch at 3pm. we abbed off as it was too late. shame, it would have gone we think. cool first pitch, never too bad
with Don
started climbing at 12ish, i arrived at the top of pitch at 3pm. we abbed off as it was too late. shame, it would have gone we think. cool first pitch, never too bad
with Don
stevebarratt 29 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Rob Bryniarski
with Rob Bryniarski
Ally Baba 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd Stupidly tried used my tools on the hand traverse! Fell off whilst seconding. The rest was good and really enjoyable.
with M.Hartree,
Stupidly tried used my tools on the hand traverse! Fell off whilst seconding. The rest was good and really enjoyable.
with M.Hartree,
2ba 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd
akhughes ?Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S I linked 2nd and 3rd pitch. awesome route. only VI, 6
with Steptoe
I linked 2nd and 3rd pitch. awesome route. only VI, 6
with Steptoe
James Gordon ??, 2010 -
Andrew Nelson ??, 2010 - pretty straightforward but really cool
with paul Chiddle
pretty straightforward but really cool
with paul Chiddle
Hidden 23 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 23 Dec, 2009 AltLd
with Burnsie
with Burnsie
Malcolm Bass 20 Dec, 2009 AltLd
with Ian Parnell, Simon Yearsley
with Ian Parnell, Simon Yearsley
Ian Parnell 20 Dec, 2009 -
with Simon Yearsley, Malcolm Bass
with Simon Yearsley, Malcolm Bass
Ed Booth 1 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S Led second pitch. good route. Ice in top groove. Turf very well frozen.
with will sim
Led second pitch. good route. Ice in top groove. Turf very well frozen.
with will sim
Simon Yearsley 20 Nov, 2009 AltLd
with Ian Parnell, Malcolm Bass
with Ian Parnell, Malcolm Bass
French Erick 12 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S Awesome route. Very contrasting pitches. Outrageous moves on the hand traverse not that hard at all. p2 and p3 ran together. Mostly thinnish but good ice, reasonable pro until the last 8m of the steep bit. Required just to get on with it. Not VII but deserves all the ****
with Andy Sharpe
Awesome route. Very contrasting pitches. Outrageous moves on the hand traverse not that hard at all. p2 and p3 ran together. Mostly thinnish but good ice, reasonable pro until the last 8m of the steep bit. Required just to get on with it. Not VII but deserves all the ****
with Andy Sharpe
Hidden ?Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
a_hein ??, 2004 AltLd O/S My first scottish winter lead...very nice!
with Viv Scott
My first scottish winter lead...very nice!
with Viv Scott
Stuart the postie ?Feb, 1996 -
with Scott Muir
with Scott Muir
Hidden ?Feb, 1994 AltLd
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Voting
High VIII
Mid VIII
Low VIII
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 30
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Fall-Out

Grade: VII 7 ***
(Aonach Dubh)