Altitude 362m a.s.l
Why do you need an Ice Hammer on Etive? For the midges... © pneame
On the east flank of Beinn Trilleachan at the head of Glen Etive lie a unique mass of granite slabs set at about 40 degrees, which provide exciting and serious friction climbing. Most of the routes require some long run outs, a cool head and good route finding skills.
Access is gained via a very boggy path from the Glen Etive road head in about 45 minutes. Compounding the approach misery are the copious amount of ticks lying in wait for you.
Approach path is currently (summer 21) faint and hard to spot. When you walk along the road towards the fenced off old pier and then take the path round the fencing to the right, carry on a couple hundred metres. The climbers path is on the right just after you've passed some small trees and a buried plastic pipe running under the track. May be a small cairn.
|Major rock fall 20/7/21 . 2 spontaneous releases within 15mins of each other. we witnessed fridge sized blocks coming down the slabs between Hammer and the upper pitches of Swastika. Some small bits richocheted across to the middle pitches of Spartan and down to the coffin stone.
arose - 23/Jul/21
|Slabs were in good condition. Walk in very boggy and overgrown. (Pack a black bag to pop your shoes in when you put them in your bag for the decent path)
Found the walk in very 'ticky'.
Stevie989 - 13/Sep/14
|Rock Fall Thursday 10/06/10. Please excercise caution on the first pitch of Spartan Slab / The Pause as a large section of the overlap below the first belay ledge dropped away yesterday! Several tonnes of granite dropped out from the overlap and fell directly onto the area around the coffin stone. The Pause has several damaged flakes / sections and not sure if grade remains same. Please excercise caution if you climb these routes. Luckily we were high up on the slabs above and there were no other parties visiting the crag. God only knows what would have happened if this had happened on a weekend day!
Mountain Intelligence Leeds - 11/Jun/10
|Mention of loose rock in the introduction should be qualified - the danger comes from rocks dislodged from the descent path. The rock on the face itself is uniformly excellent.
Dr Toph - 07/Jun/10
|If everyone that walked into the Etive Slabs carries a rock from the bottom and drops it in the first wet patch they have to step in and does the same on the way back, I'll no longer have to wear wellies or flipflops for the walk-in.
I've been doing this for a year now and have dropped six rocks, so am not getting anywhere quick, please help.
jonnie3430 - 27/May/10
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