UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 840m a.s.l
Faces all

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Dave MacLeod on the first ascent of Transition, shortly before ankle surgery © Hot Aches Productions

Crag features

A north facing curving cliff down Glen Orchy with a lower tier of quartzite and an upper tier of schist. A series of springs flow naturally over the cliff edge and in a good freeze impressive ice flows build up giving ice routes up to 100m in height. Quartzvein Scoop (IV), Sunshine Gully (III) and The Smirk (V) are all 3-star ice routes.

Approach notes

Form the single track Glen Orchy road park where the Allt Diamh stream joins the road and walk up the stream bank to the cliffs in about 1 hour.

Access Advice

Polite request from friends of a friend at Glen Orchy Farm:

Hello Winter Climbers - please could I give you a polite nudge to take the gate at the bottom of the drive - rather than up through the farm yard. The dogs just woke the kids up with the torches passing the house and for biosecurity reasons its much better the footfall goes across the field rather the through the farmyard...not to mention Covid - we‘d prefer to know that everyone is going the same way and not touching more gates than necessary. Many Thanks Fiona (Please share among the climbing community)

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Climbs at this crag

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