4 pitches.
Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b, 4) 6a. Previously called 'Grande Arête'. © Rockfax
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Richardlake | 7 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Will did pitch 1 to belay under the arete. Ignored the bolts leading up and left as per other comments here. Went round the right to climb the slab. Shitty start with bushes and vegetated ledges, then a good but hard section to reach the break which you can use to get back to the arete proper. There is a huge run out between the bolt before this break and the one after it. You can thrad a sling in the break but the rock looks awful - i would hate to have fallen on it. The bolts on this side of the arete carry on to the top but are really spaced and it looked harder than 6b+. I moved on to the arete where the big orange holes are. You can rest here, and see the line of bolts going up the arete itself (and some on the back wall if you lean round...). A hold (the best i could find) exploded when i tried to clip the bold on the arete above the holes. I'd had enough at this point so retreated on a screw gate. I dont mid run outs if they are relatively safe. These ones felt gratuitous and dangerous in places. Not sure why there are three lines of bolts for the second pitch - surely the wrong ones should be removed. The line is incredible but all the above adds up to a pretty frustrating experience. If you are onsighting 7a / 7b then this wont be an issue but it all felt pretty hectic for 6b+... | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Will did pitch 1 to belay under the arete. Ignored the bolts leading up and left as per other comments here. Went round the right to climb the slab. Shitty start with bushes and vegetated ledges, then a good but hard section to reach the break which you can use to get back to the arete proper. There is a huge run out between the bolt before this break and the one after it. You can thrad a sling in the break but the rock looks awful - i would hate to have fallen on it. The bolts on this side of the arete carry on to the top but are really spaced and it looked harder than 6b+. I moved on to the arete where the big orange holes are. You can rest here, and see the line of bolts going up the arete itself (and some on the back wall if you lean round...). A hold (the best i could find) exploded when i tried to clip the bold on the arete above the holes. I'd had enough at this point so retreated on a screw gate. I dont mid run outs if they are relatively safe. These ones felt gratuitous and dangerous in places. Not sure why there are three lines of bolts for the second pitch - surely the wrong ones should be removed. The line is incredible but all the above adds up to a pretty frustrating experience. If you are onsighting 7a / 7b then this wont be an issue but it all felt pretty hectic for 6b+... |
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Route of Interest
La Fesse Droite
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Aiguille de Buis)