UKC

220m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 6a+, 3) 3, 4) 5a, 5) 4a, 6) 5c, 7) 4c, 8) 5c, 9) 5a.
The classic of the buttress and the most popular route here by quite a margin. The crux wall/offwidth on the 2nd pitch is short-lived but quite taxing. It is possible to miss out the first two pitches by following a vague track (exposed) out to a belay by the arête about 70m above the base of the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Verdon , Rockfax Côte d'Azur Top 50 (2017) , Verdon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dylan Driscoll 19 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Led pitch 1 and 3, Luke led pitches 2, 4, 5 and maybe 6?. Left the van at 6am Thursday and got back at 12pm Friday! Everything took longer than expected, the decent took 3 hours and it took 5 hours to climb 5 pitches. We were in the sun from 12 o’clock and I became dehydrated and weak so we abbed back to the base. By the time we got to the bottom it was getting dark, we made our way down to the river and had to sleep on the rocks until dawn. It was freezing cold in the night due to the wind and we just had shorts and t-shirt on.We crossed the river to the path and walked an hour to the right only to find that we had gone the wrong way and had to turn around. I drank 4 litres of water straight from the river just to be able to make it out of the gorge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led pitch 1 and 3, Luke led pitches 2, 4, 5 and maybe 6?. Left the van at 6am Thursday and got back at 12pm Friday! Everything took longer than expected, the decent took 3 hours and it took 5 hours to climb 5 pitches. We were in the sun from 12 o’clock and I became dehydrated and weak so we abbed back to the base. By the time we got to the bottom it was getting dark, we made our way down to the river and had to sleep on the rocks until dawn. It was freezing cold in the night due to the wind and we just had shorts and t-shirt on.We crossed the river to the path and walked an hour to the right only to find that we had gone the wrong way and had to turn around. I drank 4 litres of water straight from the river just to be able to make it out of the gorge.
MadVlad 8 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is one bolt missing at the top of P5. It is possible to use a big nut instead of the second bold, or link the anchor with another bold about 1.5 meters higher with a long sling.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is one bolt missing at the top of P5. It is possible to use a big nut instead of the second bold, or link the anchor with another bold about 1.5 meters higher with a long sling.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Belvédère des Malines

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Libre Errance

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Sisteron)

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