130m, 2 pitches.
Requires snow down to sea level and a good frost to be in condition.
Takes a line up the North East Face. From the corrie, a large buttress is visible about ¾ height.
Follow a steep, direct line straight up to the bottom left toe of the buttress on frozen turf, rock and snow. Belay.
A poorly protected rake of snow/turf leads diagonally right and up and over a rock step for 30 metres, until easier mixed ground on the right shoulder of the NE face is reached. Follow the shoulder, trending leftwards to the top on turf, snow, ice and rock before a slight steepening reaches the summit cairn.
Takes a line up the North East Face. From the corrie, a large buttress is visible about ¾ height.
Follow a steep, direct line straight up to the bottom left toe of the buttress on frozen turf, rock and snow. Belay.
A poorly protected rake of snow/turf leads diagonally right and up and over a rock step for 30 metres, until easier mixed ground on the right shoulder of the NE face is reached. Follow the shoulder, trending leftwards to the top on turf, snow, ice and rock before a slight steepening reaches the summit cairn.
Davy Virdee and Andrew Briggs 30/Dec/2000.
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Route of Interest
Number Three Gully Buttress
Grade: III 4 ***
(Ben Nevis)