115m, 3 pitches.
Climbs the left side of the buttress between South Gully and Lost the Place. Start beneath snowy mixed ground about 30m right of South Gully.
1. 30m Climb easy grooves upwards and then trend right to the base of a short steep crack on the edge of the wall with a large block below (rightmost of two). Make interesting moves up the crack and exit onto a right trending ramp, climb this for a few meters and then angle back left up a shallow groove to a good ledge and belay a few meters down and left of The Sorcerer.
2. 40m Step left and go up to and behind a large pinnacle block which leads to the base of a prominent right facing corner. Climb this (crux) and continue up the corner to a snowfield and belay in an alcove below a steep wall.
3. 45m Finish up Lost the Place via its awkward traverse and steep chimney.
1. 30m Climb easy grooves upwards and then trend right to the base of a short steep crack on the edge of the wall with a large block below (rightmost of two). Make interesting moves up the crack and exit onto a right trending ramp, climb this for a few meters and then angle back left up a shallow groove to a good ledge and belay a few meters down and left of The Sorcerer.
2. 40m Step left and go up to and behind a large pinnacle block which leads to the base of a prominent right facing corner. Climb this (crux) and continue up the corner to a snowfield and belay in an alcove below a steep wall.
3. 45m Finish up Lost the Place via its awkward traverse and steep chimney.
James Milton, Nathan Adam 07/Jan/2024.
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Route of Interest
silver tear
Grade: V 5 ***
(Beinn Bhan)