55m, 2 pitches. The climb is the obvious overhanging groove/corner crack on the left side of the steep buttress, to the right of Great Chimney, in the Echo Wall area of Tower Ridge. A very well protected, fun climb. Feels bigger than it actually is.

Follow ice smears for approximately 30 m, until a large ledge beneath the main face of the buttress is reached.

1. On the left side of the ledge, beneath the overhanging groove/corner, is a broken right to left crack system. Follow this with one quite hard pull, until on a ledge just to the left of the groove. The belay is an in-situ hex, and a large block on the far left of the ledge.
2. Climb direct into the steep groove, (interesting!), then using a variety of techniques and a certain amount of core strength, continue to climb the overhanging corner past a small pod with a quasi-rest, before passing another overhang, (crux) and into a tight v-groove to exit steeply onto Tower Ridge.

Nick Bullock, Dougal Tavener 16/Dec/2011.


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High IX
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High 11
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Route of Interest
The Godfather

Grade: VIII 8 ***
(Beinn Bhan)

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