150m, 4 pitches.
Summary: This south-east facing line follows in parts the "Right-hand Rib" scramble (Grade 2*) and provides an interesting and versatile climb in mixed terrain. Predominantly solid rock allows all four pitches and belays to be well protected. The route follows the easiest way up the rib using the obvious weak points of the rib, predominantly systems of snowed up rocky corners, turf and frozen cracks.
Approach: From Loch Earn car park using the walkers path. Over the summit and the connecting ridge, to the south-east summit. Descend on grassy and bouldery slopes down and right to the bottom of a rib, which in the summer marks the start of the right-hand rib scramble. The bottom has a clearly-identifiable flat ledge. Start at 850m.
P1 25m - Climb a system of steepening corners to a small sheltered ledge. Grade III, 4.
P2 45m - From ledge, go up a short steps onto a narrowed arete, trend right up to a block belay under a steep overhanging wall. Grade II.
P3 25m - From the belay head left, up the corner with delicate feet but good hooks (crux, but well protected) then traverse right on small inclining ledge and up on the right side of the steepening ridge. Anchor on a small, sheltered plateau with big boulders. Grade IV,4.
P4 40m - start of pitch 4 is 10m left of the previous belay on a big and flat ledge. From belay straight up the central rocky corner then left on ledge towards gully up the exposed block and turf steps to last belay on the narrowing, but flattening rib. Grade III,4
Finish up the open slopes on the summit ridge. Grade I.
Descend: As approach over the the Summit of Ben Vorlich and down to Loch Earn Car Park.
Approach: From Loch Earn car park using the walkers path. Over the summit and the connecting ridge, to the south-east summit. Descend on grassy and bouldery slopes down and right to the bottom of a rib, which in the summer marks the start of the right-hand rib scramble. The bottom has a clearly-identifiable flat ledge. Start at 850m.
P1 25m - Climb a system of steepening corners to a small sheltered ledge. Grade III, 4.
P2 45m - From ledge, go up a short steps onto a narrowed arete, trend right up to a block belay under a steep overhanging wall. Grade II.
P3 25m - From the belay head left, up the corner with delicate feet but good hooks (crux, but well protected) then traverse right on small inclining ledge and up on the right side of the steepening ridge. Anchor on a small, sheltered plateau with big boulders. Grade IV,4.
P4 40m - start of pitch 4 is 10m left of the previous belay on a big and flat ledge. From belay straight up the central rocky corner then left on ledge towards gully up the exposed block and turf steps to last belay on the narrowing, but flattening rib. Grade III,4
Finish up the open slopes on the summit ridge. Grade I.
Descend: As approach over the the Summit of Ben Vorlich and down to Loch Earn Car Park.
James Seaman & Andreas Höhn 23/Feb/2020.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| kwoods | 2 Jan |
Show βeta
βeta: We did three pitches, seemed to work well. 1. 50m, up the groove in the centre of the stand-alone buttress at the bottom. Walk to base of next crag. 2. 30m, up the obvious groove in the next buttress - instead of going all the way, traverse hard right around the corner, belay on boulders above. 3. 45m up a vague corner in the next buttress to the final ridge spine, belay at the easing of ground - great pitch. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: We did three pitches, seemed to work well. 1. 50m, up the groove in the centre of the stand-alone buttress at the bottom. Walk to base of next crag. 2. 30m, up the obvious groove in the next buttress - instead of going all the way, traverse hard right around the corner, belay on boulders above. 3. 45m up a vague corner in the next buttress to the final ridge spine, belay at the easing of ground - great pitch. |
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| dougp87 | 2 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Surprisingly good grade 4 climbing in a very mellow setting. You can walk “pitch” 2 so run together with 1. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Surprisingly good grade 4 climbing in a very mellow setting. You can walk “pitch” 2 so run together with 1. |
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Route of Interest
Lomond Corner
Grade: IV 5 ***
(Ben Lomond)