90m, 4 pitches.
An exciting line with an outrageous 3rd pitch with the first two pitches avoiding the looser (in summer) blocks of its neighbouring winter routes. Start at the easy crack immediately right of Crypt Route.
1. 5b, 25 m
Follow the easy crack to where it joins the Angel’s routes crack and follow this to the break, traverse this left to a thinner hanging crack just right of the arete and follow this until just BELOW a ledge to belay on small wires.
2. 5c, 15 m
Step right past the arete into the crack round the corner follow this to it’s top then traverse up left to the ledge and belay of Crypt Route.
3. 5a, 15 m
Intimidating but easier than the last pitch, start up the next pitch of Crypt route but step right onto the wall of the huge leaning block making delicate progress by pulling and overhanging chimneying up the keyed in blocks to exit into the light at the top of the gap, belay (large thread) here.
4. 5a, 35 m.
From the belay head up the arete and crack that leading into a leftwards trending groove (as for Knights Templar) until it is possible to head right to a ledge by delicate moves, traverse this under a triangular overhang to head up the groove on the right, follow this line (joining Critical Mass) to the top.
1. 5b, 25 m
Follow the easy crack to where it joins the Angel’s routes crack and follow this to the break, traverse this left to a thinner hanging crack just right of the arete and follow this until just BELOW a ledge to belay on small wires.
2. 5c, 15 m
Step right past the arete into the crack round the corner follow this to it’s top then traverse up left to the ledge and belay of Crypt Route.
3. 5a, 15 m
Intimidating but easier than the last pitch, start up the next pitch of Crypt route but step right onto the wall of the huge leaning block making delicate progress by pulling and overhanging chimneying up the keyed in blocks to exit into the light at the top of the gap, belay (large thread) here.
4. 5a, 35 m.
From the belay head up the arete and crack that leading into a leftwards trending groove (as for Knights Templar) until it is possible to head right to a ledge by delicate moves, traverse this under a triangular overhang to head up the groove on the right, follow this line (joining Critical Mass) to the top.
Bede West & James Stops 25/Jul/2021.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| arose | 29 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The description is a wee bit misleading as it mentions “angels”. I think it’s referring to a route called “dark Angel” and not “angels” as this is on a different buttress. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The description is a wee bit misleading as it mentions “angels”. I think it’s referring to a route called “dark Angel” and not “angels” as this is on a different buttress. |
||||
Logged Ascents
3 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Bidean nam Bian
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Maiden of the Cancer Moon
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Maiden's Crag)