UKC

185m, 6 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

D F Lang, G N Hunter Jun/1967.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish Classic Rock , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , Big Routes , The Baron's Bucket List , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Ultimate HS ticklist , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Highland Outcrops South *** , STAUMC Ticklist , Ardnamurchan, Ardgour and Mull mid-grade , Must climb at crags , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , 4 Star Scottish rock , Rope Solo , A.P's summer , Consolidation Easy Long Routes , Lairig hitlist , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scotland wishlist , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , To Do , HS-HVS adventures , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , The Classic, Easy Scottish Mountain Routes , Greg's rock bucket list , Hayley and Sam Trad Hitlist up to HS , Scotland , Muls road trip plans/hopes , Road Trip summer 2025 , Summer Psyche , Summer 2025 , Billy's List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Robertson 17 May Show βeta
βeta: Using Gary Latter's guide, I'm sure we belayed in the position described at the top of the second pitch, on slings over the top of a good flake, about three metres right of a corner. The slanting crack of the third pitch was nowhere to be seen, and moving up from the belay didn't look right. We had to climb back left towards the corner and up quite a few feet before the slanting crack appeared.
Show beta
βeta: Using Gary Latter's guide, I'm sure we belayed in the position described at the top of the second pitch, on slings over the top of a good flake, about three metres right of a corner. The slanting crack of the third pitch was nowhere to be seen, and moving up from the belay didn't look right. We had to climb back left towards the corner and up quite a few feet before the slanting crack appeared.
Christabel Goode 1 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Half hour cycle in to bridge at lake + ~half hour walk to route.
Show beta
βeta: Half hour cycle in to bridge at lake + ~half hour walk to route.
charlesisbozo 9 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: For the anchor at the top out, continue up, cross some heather onto a smaller, flatter slab. There is a boulder with some wear at the bottom which can be used as an anchor. It's a bit on the small side, but adequate for the purpose.
Show beta
βeta: For the anchor at the top out, continue up, cross some heather onto a smaller, flatter slab. There is a boulder with some wear at the bottom which can be used as an anchor. It's a bit on the small side, but adequate for the purpose.
Ian Campbell 11 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of the top out, couldn't find an anchor so ended up body belaying!
Show beta
βeta: Beware of the top out, couldn't find an anchor so ended up body belaying!
Antonysax 22 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Looked forward to the route but found it tick/midge infested on the way in and out and overall a bit ‘meh’.
Show beta
βeta: Looked forward to the route but found it tick/midge infested on the way in and out and overall a bit ‘meh’.
Tom Fullen 19 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd half of pitch 1 is bold with spaced gear, but there is gear if you hunt around across the slab. Absolutely no chance of a ground-fall if you take the time to really look for gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd half of pitch 1 is bold with spaced gear, but there is gear if you hunt around across the slab. Absolutely no chance of a ground-fall if you take the time to really look for gear.
Louise Prentice 1 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The second part of pitch 1 (based on the Gary Latter guidebook) has no gear so is extremely run out! Definitely good to be aware of this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The second part of pitch 1 (based on the Gary Latter guidebook) has no gear so is extremely run out! Definitely good to be aware of this
Lynton 31 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There's definite ground-fall potential on the second part of pitch 1. If you're climbing at or near your limit and you don't have a good head for soloing then approach with caution. Pitch 2 has OK gear when you need it, and the other pitches are fine. There are two 'forks' on the approach track that weren't mentioned in our guidebook, and we got both of them wrong. To save other idiots the same fate (and a three hour walk-in): after about five minutes of walking go left through the gate at the first fork (instead of round to the right past the houses). Then, after about 30 minutes of walking, the track will bend around to the left and down to a loch, take the right-hand turn here (ignoring the arrow sign), this will lead you to the correct loch and then the instructions are clear
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's definite ground-fall potential on the second part of pitch 1. If you're climbing at or near your limit and you don't have a good head for soloing then approach with caution. Pitch 2 has OK gear when you need it, and the other pitches are fine. There are two 'forks' on the approach track that weren't mentioned in our guidebook, and we got both of them wrong. To save other idiots the same fate (and a three hour walk-in): after about five minutes of walking go left through the gate at the first fork (instead of round to the right past the houses). Then, after about 30 minutes of walking, the track will bend around to the left and down to a loch, take the right-hand turn here (ignoring the arrow sign), this will lead you to the correct loch and then the instructions are clear
Stanley 24 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd pitch goes left into a very obvious ramp
Show beta
βeta: 3rd pitch goes left into a very obvious ramp

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High VS
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High S
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Votes cast 194
High 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
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High 4a
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Low 4a
Votes cast 176
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tree Hee

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Creag Dubh (Newtonmore))

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