UKC

185m, 6 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

D F Lang, G N Hunter Jun/1967.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish Classic Rock , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , Big Routes , The Baron's Bucket List , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Ultimate HS ticklist , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Highland Outcrops South *** , STAUMC Ticklist , Ardnamurchan, Ardgour and Mull mid-grade , Must climb at crags , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , 4 Star Scottish rock , Rope Solo , A.P's summer , Consolidation Easy Long Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Fullen 19 May Show βeta
βeta: 2nd half of pitch 1 is bold with spaced gear, but there is gear if you hunt around across the slab. Absolutely no chance of a ground-fall if you take the time to really look for gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd half of pitch 1 is bold with spaced gear, but there is gear if you hunt around across the slab. Absolutely no chance of a ground-fall if you take the time to really look for gear.
Louise Prentice 1 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The second part of pitch 1 (based on the Gary Latter guidebook) has no gear so is extremely run out! Definitely good to be aware of this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The second part of pitch 1 (based on the Gary Latter guidebook) has no gear so is extremely run out! Definitely good to be aware of this
Lynton 31 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There's definite ground-fall potential on the second part of pitch 1. If you're climbing at or near your limit and you don't have a good head for soloing then approach with caution. Pitch 2 has OK gear when you need it, and the other pitches are fine. There are two 'forks' on the approach track that weren't mentioned in our guidebook, and we got both of them wrong. To save other idiots the same fate (and a three hour walk-in): after about five minutes of walking go left through the gate at the first fork (instead of round to the right past the houses). Then, after about 30 minutes of walking, the track will bend around to the left and down to a loch, take the right-hand turn here (ignoring the arrow sign), this will lead you to the correct loch and then the instructions are clear
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's definite ground-fall potential on the second part of pitch 1. If you're climbing at or near your limit and you don't have a good head for soloing then approach with caution. Pitch 2 has OK gear when you need it, and the other pitches are fine. There are two 'forks' on the approach track that weren't mentioned in our guidebook, and we got both of them wrong. To save other idiots the same fate (and a three hour walk-in): after about five minutes of walking go left through the gate at the first fork (instead of round to the right past the houses). Then, after about 30 minutes of walking, the track will bend around to the left and down to a loch, take the right-hand turn here (ignoring the arrow sign), this will lead you to the correct loch and then the instructions are clear
Climbingtony 9 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely brilliant climb. A mid morning shower made it damp, we waited and waited. Eventually the sun came out, a breeze picked up and it dried. The rock either side was still wet but by some fluke this route was dry! I led all of the pitches, did 1 and 2 together to save a bit of time. There was a rain shower just before setting off on pitch 4 but it was still dry enough. The top slabs were wet! We saw peregrines being acrobatically playful. Rained when we got to the grass, a fantastic day out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely brilliant climb. A mid morning shower made it damp, we waited and waited. Eventually the sun came out, a breeze picked up and it dried. The rock either side was still wet but by some fluke this route was dry! I led all of the pitches, did 1 and 2 together to save a bit of time. There was a rain shower just before setting off on pitch 4 but it was still dry enough. The top slabs were wet! We saw peregrines being acrobatically playful. Rained when we got to the grass, a fantastic day out.
hutchymh 22 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: No birds nesting that I could see
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No birds nesting that I could see
tosca 8 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Seepage after 3rd pitch. Abbed off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seepage after 3rd pitch. Abbed off.
FallingBrick 24 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Green and Red DMM Torque nuts have decent placements in the bold upper part of pitch 1. Definitely something nesting to E of the route around 2nd pitch (not apparent from bottom) - although seemed to be standard feeding call cycle of chicks never saw the adults. Worth being aware and careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Green and Red DMM Torque nuts have decent placements in the bold upper part of pitch 1. Definitely something nesting to E of the route around 2nd pitch (not apparent from bottom) - although seemed to be standard feeding call cycle of chicks never saw the adults. Worth being aware and careful.
jack_44 18 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Unhappy peregrine's I think further East from the route 18/06/21. Seemed ok at first until we were halfway up and maybe as more people came. Probably worth avoiding this route until further advice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unhappy peregrine's I think further East from the route 18/06/21. Seemed ok at first until we were halfway up and maybe as more people came. Probably worth avoiding this route until further advice.
Stanley 24 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd pitch goes left into a very obvious ramp
Show beta
βeta: 3rd pitch goes left into a very obvious ramp

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Leac Glas

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Meall Meadhoin)

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