UKC

80m, 3 pitches. Accepts the challenge of the off-width crack bisecting the roof above The Garden.
1. 40m 5c. Entering the crack is difficult. follow it to the roof and back and foot the chimney above to a steep slab. Up this to positive holds and the belay.
2. 15m. Up the easy corner to a ledge and tree belay.
3. 25m 5a Take the diagonal crack to reach a slab and the finish.

M. A. Charlton and A. A. Moist 17/Jun/1984.

Ticklists

UK road to wide crack mastery , The Cracks of Scotland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Brown 8 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Boulder problem crux to get started. There was a spooky bit in the lower chimney groove which felt bold but easy. Then glorious overhanging chimney to glory. No need for mega sized cams.
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Boulder problem crux to get started. There was a spooky bit in the lower chimney groove which felt bold but easy. Then glorious overhanging chimney to glory. No need for mega sized cams.
murray 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If midgie conditions are bad, this route is a bad choice. There seems to be a lot of them living in the fault line, at least at the bottom.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If midgie conditions are bad, this route is a bad choice. There seems to be a lot of them living in the fault line, at least at the bottom.
ross 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, not scary as guide says, easy E3. Looks dirty and it is, but don't be put off, that doesn't really affect the climbing. Holds and gear are friable up to the roof, but it's easy. Gear then is excellent. I used a yellow Camelot early on, another under the roof and a blue in top crack. That was plenty. you'd get another blue or bigger in top crack but there's other gear too including a thread which is tricky to wriggle in.
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route, not scary as guide says, easy E3. Looks dirty and it is, but don't be put off, that doesn't really affect the climbing. Holds and gear are friable up to the roof, but it's easy. Gear then is excellent. I used a yellow Camelot early on, another under the roof and a blue in top crack. That was plenty. you'd get another blue or bigger in top crack but there's other gear too including a thread which is tricky to wriggle in.

Logged Ascents

4 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Binnein Shuas

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 3 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Route of Interest
Land Ahoy

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis)

Loading Notifications...