Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Verity climbing the link up of Free Kisses. © Paul at work

Crag features

The crag layout has been changed to correspond more closely with Wye Valley Sport 3, the most up-to-date guidebook (but there are already a few newer routes). The upper sections of Networking, Fool's Gold and Stolen Kisses are now listed as separate routes. Log entries of earlier ascents of the full-height routes will need amending (if desired).

A shady, secluded roadside crag with good quality, unpolished, solid rock, and mostly well-bolted sport routes, with just a handful of trad. The disadvantages are limited parking, an ENE aspect, and a dense screen of trees: the rock doesn't get a lot of sun, and can stay damp for long periods, especially in winter. The crag is also prone to revegetation, although it does get a facelift every few years. The Quarry lies within the Black Cliff and Wynd Cliff Nature Reserve area: any cleaning should be undertaken with care and discretion.

Approach notes

Black Cliff Quarry lies next to the A466 between St Arvans and Tintern, about half a mile north of Wyndcliffe Quarry. Parking is no longer possible at the Livox Quarry entrance; however, there is space for two cars 50m back up the road (south) on the other side, at a small clearing by a forestry track with gate: please don't block or obstruct access. From here turn right and walk (south) up the road for 50m to find a gate and the clearest path into the quarry.

Extensively cleaned at present with several new routes as well, well recommended for those tired of wyndcliffe quarry
Stone Muppet - 21/Jul/20
Quite overgrown, very adventurous in comparison to Windcliff Quarry, and with much more standard bolting (fewer and further apart).
harrison - 26/Jun/17
Visited today, very overgrown. The bottom of the crag shows some signs of people visiting.
Paul at work - 23/Aug/16
If you like tree branches sticking in your ear while you try to clip and are fond of muddy hand holds and a sandbag grade, then Black Cliff is for you. Sadly the best route here (the HVS crack) now has two trees growing out of it
drgrange - 25/Jun/15
A roadside jungle adventure.....very overgrown and therefore completely unpolished. Walk up the hill from Livox quarry for about 50m and look for a very hidden path into the left side of jurassic park. The traffic is quite intrusive.
SGD - 27/Jul/14
So chossy and overgrown. I turned round and headed straight back to wyndcliff without doing any routes. Full on jungle experience, very little light gets to the rock.
Tristan.Stricker - 28/May/14
overgrown a little at the bottom of the routes but the rock itself is clean. couple of little stonefalls but nothing major, having been to tintern quarry earlier in the day!
combatrock - 12/Jul/13
Went here yesterday for a look. VERY overgrown with bramble and Japanese knotweed. Rock quality good, but routes need a lot of gardening!! Could be good little crag if it got the traffic, right now not worth the effort.
stranter - 12/Aug/12
Good crag, very overgrown!! Had some issues with stolen kisses into the top of whiskas! The bolts for the station at top of whiskas have some play in them!!! Caution is advised
revolvingdoorno2 - 10/Apr/11
**Correction: Head left UP the hill.
peteruk - 20/Mar/11
A really good crag to climb if you're wanting to start sport climbing and live locally to the area. There are new bolts on the main section (possible Livox Buttress) with some technical climbs if you're are making the move from indoor to outdoor. Had a bit of trouble finding it though: if you park in the quarry entrance head left back down the hill a bit (this wasn't stated in the Wye valley guide book and we walked right past it - whoops).
peteruk - 20/Mar/11
It is currently (June 2010) possible to park in the Livox quarry entrance as this has now finished operations.
The Pylon King - 12/Jun/10
Easily the worst crag in the Wye valley but worth a single visit to do the few starred routes especially 'Wolf Whistle'.
The Pylon King - 12/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

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