The most sustained line up the face features continuously interesting moves and open situations. Start at a thin diagonal crack right of the alternative start to Troutdale Pinnacle.
1) 5b, 38m. Take the crack to a ledge then continue up the wall above to another grassy ledge. Climb to a small overlap, then move left to a shallow depression that leads to a stance and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Ascend the wall right of Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect's wide crack (some gear in the wide crack protects the initial moves out onto the wall) until below a steep groove. Climb the exposed groove to the top of the pinnacle and belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Follow the corner up the prow and make a final pull left to gain easier territory and the top as for Troutdale Pinnacle. Originally this pitch finished on the leftside of the prow but it has become heavily coated in moss. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fabulous outing with a good variety of pitches.
1. 5b The technical crux is the obvious, perfectly protected, slanting crack. Go right to the crack in the easier upper slab to the moustache of heather. Step up left to belay.
2. 4c Take the obvious line of holds up to the left end of the white roof, go left up a crack and then up a scoop. Very nice rock. These first two pitches can easily be ran together.
3. 5b The main objective and a superb pitch. Take the obvious flake in the wall to the right of the crack of the Superdirect with one move to the left onto the right hand flake. Continue up the steepening groove to the right slanting groove which leads to the stance on top of the pinnacle. It is not necessary to make two 2m stride left to the Superdirect.
4. 4c move up and pull left around the arete a little below where you would for troutdale pinnacle. or more normally finish as for troutdale pinnacle
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