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Climbs 14
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 79m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Warming up on Out on a Limb ©

Crag features

Black crag nestles within woodland across the valley from Chudleigh South and is visible from the top of Gagool Buttress. The climbing consists of steep single-pitch routes, with the highlight being an outstanding set of starred routes at E2 and E3. Whilst the crag would benefit from more traffic, it is a simple matter to abseil and have a quick tidy up before your big lead. Adequate natural protection exists, but placements can be a bit fiddly and creative.

Approach notes

Park as for Chudleigh and follow its approach until the path divides. Continue down the hill to the brook, find a place to cross and climb up the steep slope to the foot of the buttress.

Alternatively, on the lane south of the crag, there is limited parking next to a gateway in the stone wall, opposite a track into the woods. Follow the track for about 350m, until it bears left under a high tree canopy. The top of Black Crag is immediately on the right and the base can be reached by a steep descent to its left.

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Climbs at this crag

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