UKC

Climbs 18
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Graham on Mental Crack VS4b © Yourlead

Crag features

Lies on the SW face of Black Hill overlooking Dunsinane Hill in the Sidlaws.

Approach notes

Please park on verge opposite a small cutting on B953 at grid NO223317 - cutting now filled with boulders.   Alternately there is a layby (with some boulders) at NO211310, or even on the verge of the B953 at NO218313 near a field gate but away from the house entrance on the south side of the road.

Guidebooks

second time at the crag and probably my last. too loose and far to much lichen, the gorse is unreal also. no wonder it's so quiet there.
Hawky - 29/Sep/15
parking is through Collace and on an uphill corner, not much space and a fair walk to the crag. We parked further up the road beside a house with the crag in full view, arrived back to a letter on windscreen, a nice letter saying not to park here and park outside Collace. The crag is nice except the gorse bushed everywhere, need alot more traffic. loads of potential new routes.
Hawky - 20/Sep/15
plenty new lines here to be done, we tried today, see if you can find my #7 gold dmm offset, thought we were on mental crack but apparently not. leader had to bail.
Hawky - 19/Sep/15
. The best place to park which also provides easier access anyway is minor road a bit further west going north west from the B953 to Collace. You can park on the wide grass verge near a gate at grid NO211312. Go through the gate and skirt the field, and cross the gate at its north east corner. Contour above the cottage and a go through a swing style taking you to the pass between Dunsinane and Black Hills. The crag is split into two halves of the west side of Black Hill. As far as I can ascertain this is the order of the climbs starting at the far left or north. Pinnacle Corner, Pinnacle Face, MC Corner, Mental Crack, Gorse Ridge, Gorse Buttress, No Root Wall, Tree Route, Tales of the Unexpected, Abernyte Corner, Windy Gap Groove and Brittle Rock Way. Lovely venue. Short climbs. A lot of lichen to be wary of. Possibility of adding more routes on the southern half.
alistairmontgomery - 05/Sep/13
Just wondering where I can find the decriptions for these new climbs as they are not in the book. Can anyone help.
hepy - 21/Jul/13
The "small cutting on B953 at grid NO223317" is no longer usable (unless I've got the wrong one). Went to climb here on Monday 01/04/2013 and it's had very large boulders placed along the permimeter in an obvious attempt to stop people using it as parking. There is no clear parking for access to this crag.
subflux - 02/Apr/13
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Climbs at this crag

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