UKC

Rockfax Description
From sitting at a slot, climb up rightwards to the lip, then traverse it left before pulling around onto the slab. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Evans 24/Jan/2010.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sparrow Guns 28 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It sounds like there is some confusion about where this starts and what is allowed. I don't know for definite but I do know what I did... Sit start on the big undercut (and then eliminating the rest of the flake on the right that this merges into) is about 7A+/B and by the sounds of it not what the FA did. Starting as a sitter down left matched on a good pocket/slot (feet either with or without the slab out left, makes not much difference) then up via a dinky undercut and some slopey slightly backhand edges to get the pocket out right on the slab with right hand, then back left up rib. Prob 7C this way. Although your body passes close to the big undercut it feels pretty natural to avoid it, in fact my sequence didn't really go near it for hands.
Show beta
βeta: It sounds like there is some confusion about where this starts and what is allowed. I don't know for definite but I do know what I did... Sit start on the big undercut (and then eliminating the rest of the flake on the right that this merges into) is about 7A+/B and by the sounds of it not what the FA did. Starting as a sitter down left matched on a good pocket/slot (feet either with or without the slab out left, makes not much difference) then up via a dinky undercut and some slopey slightly backhand edges to get the pocket out right on the slab with right hand, then back left up rib. Prob 7C this way. Although your body passes close to the big undercut it feels pretty natural to avoid it, in fact my sequence didn't really go near it for hands.

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Voting
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Barry Sheene

Grade: f7C ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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