260m, 6 pitches. One of the best (and most popular) multipitches at the grade at Red Rocks. Great climbing all the way with interest in each pitch, to a nice summit view.

1) 5.7 Start from the large white flake and continue up the corner (3 bolts). Belay from slings tree.
2) 5.7 Start right up a ramp, then head left up the curving crack passing multiple stuck cams (possible crux). Large flake / chimney to belay from slings around tree above a cave.
3) 5.7 Pull over roof above belay about halfway from tree to corner. Climb a few moves up, then traverse into corner at first possible break. Climb corner to small roof, which is skirted slightly right. Before next roof, move up right to blocky trad belay.
4) 5.8 From belay, traverse above small roof to large ledge on left. Climb up to right-hand side of roof (possible bolt?). Place high gear, then step down and make delicate moves left out to arete, where exposure hits you in the face. Follow arete into corner (cam on lip of roof helps to stop rope drag), and up to small ledges and trad belay.
5) 5.8 Move up to bolt and trend right to corner (technical crux). Follow corner behind huge jammed boulder to trad belay on top of boulder.
6) 5.6 Exit right from belay, and wander up the (occasionally very run-out) slab to the right of the corner. Be careful - there's the possibility to get into serious trouble way above gear on this pitch.

Make sure to descend down to the left, rather than be fooled into moving down to the right early (this descent involves three abseils, and four hours).

Mike Gilbert, Joanne Urioste, Jorge Urioste May/1978.


Fred Beckey's 100 Favourite North American Climbs


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High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crimson Chrysalis

Grade: 5.8 ***
(Juniper Canyon)

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