Steep, wild, and loose - Polaris © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing
Blackers Hole contains some of the greatest challenges available to climbers along Britain's south coast, and for most, the view of the Great Cave's twenty five metre roof comes as a shock to the system on first acquaintance. This vast cavern provides the setting for cutting edge routes such as Infinite Gravity and Endeavour. Further east the cave gives way to slightly less-steep territory on its left-hand side, but the base changes from boulders to sea, making access difficult and the climbs even more adventurous. It is here that a number of long and difficult trad adventures wend their way, with the likes of Polaris and The Aquatic Ape being amongst Swanage's most serious undertakings. However, there is more on offer here, in the shape of roof-based sport routes in the quarry, and some secluded (though accessible) trad routes on the shorter walls to the east of the Great Cave.
The shortest approach is from the Durlston car park (fee). Walk west past the lighthouse and turn right (looking out) on to the coast path. Pass the distinctive mile pylons and continue around a wide bay, crossing over two stone walls. 200m past the second stone wall, locate a hidden descent ramp leading down to the left (looking out) side of the quarry.
Note: Part of the large flake at the top of Zig Zag (Severe) has collapsed and is reported to be in an unstable condition - please take care.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|This crag around Tobacco Road is an accident waiting to happen. The top out is dangerously loose. Belayers beware.|
Pero - 15/Oct/17
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