UKC

Climbs 109
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

View Stats

Phil Belcher Swinging off Twangy Pearl © Phil Belcher

Crag features

Blacknor Central is the least popular of the Blacknor cliffs offering a series of broken walls but with some great routes dotted along its length.

Blacknor Central is a good late-morning sun venues. There is little seepage, apart from a few drainage streaks on the Niagara Wall section of the Go With The Flow Area. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Approach notes

Blacknor Central is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South. Blacknor Central is accessed by a small track that contours underneath the crags eventually joining up with the path beneath Blacknor North.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.

The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.

More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
Dorset (2012)
Dorset (2005)
Dorset (2000)
Dorset (1994)
Whoever said "faces south-east and is a good morning sun venue" must be geographically challenged. It faces west and is a good afternoon venue!
silhouette - 13/Sep/15
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Marti999

Loading Notifications...