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Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Phil Belcher Swinging off Twangy Pearl © Phil Belcher

Crag features

Blacknor Central is the least popular of the Blacknor cliffs offering a series of broken walls but with some great routes dotted along its length.

Blacknor Central is a good late-morning sun venues. There is little seepage, apart from a few drainage streaks on the Niagara Wall section of the Go With The Flow Area. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Approach notes

Blacknor Central is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South. Blacknor Central is accessed by a small track that contours underneath the crags eventually joining up with the path beneath Blacknor North.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
Whoever said "faces south-east and is a good morning sun venue" must be geographically challenged. It faces west and is a good afternoon venue!
silhouette - 13/Sep/15
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

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