UKC

Climbs 36
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 72m a.s.l
Faces N

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Evening Session © JayK

Crag features

The quarried walls under Blacknor Fort are one of the old-school Portland bouldering venues and provide some fine low-to-mid grade problems on immaculate rock. The climbing style is very similar to the sport routes the island is famous for. It is an ideal venue for an after-work bouldering session owing to quick access. Mercury and Solace is one of the best low-grade Portland ticks.

Approach notes

Blacknor North is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area.

Access Advice

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

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