Altitude 61m a.s.l
Martin Larsen on England's Dreaming © Simon Hill
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.
Blacknor North is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line. It is the last of the Blancknor crags to get the sun.
Blacknor North is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.
Walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area. Locate a small path that drops steeply at a break in the cliff-line, and doubles back leftwards (facing out) down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Death of Cool Area.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!|
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11
|Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds
A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag.
There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help|
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11
|webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather :
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08
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