UKC

Climbs 121
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 61m a.s.l
Faces W

View Stats

Martin Larsen on England's Dreaming © Simon Hill

Crag features

Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Blacknor North is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line. It is the last of the Blancknor crags to get the sun.

Approach notes

Blacknor North is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

Walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area. Locate a small path that drops steeply at a break in the cliff-line, and doubles back leftwards (facing out) down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Death of Cool Area.

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11
webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather : http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/webcams/weymouth_webcam.shtml
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked bya UKC volunteer Marti999

Loading Notifications...