Altitude 57m a.s.l
A fantastic winter evening at Blacknor South © Ben Stokes
Blacknor South has some magnificent wall pitches on delicate flowstone, plus a number of well frequented lower-grade routes.
Some of Blacknor South faces southwest and is a good late-morning sun venues. There is a little seepage by The Oldest Profession on the Medusa Falls Area although it is usually dry in the summer. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.
Blacknor South is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.
From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here:
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
|All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?|
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
|The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.|
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
|Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!|
D Berry - 17/May/06